Contents
List of contributors xi
1 Introduction to automation in garment manufacturing 1
Rajkishore Nayak and Rajiv Padhye
1.1 Introduction 1
1.2 Automation in garment production 8
1.3 Areas of automation 10
1.4 Difficulties in automation 16
1.5 Advantages and disadvantages of automation 19
1.6 Book contents 21
1.7 Future trends 23
1.8 Conclusion 24
References 25
2 Automation versus modeling and simulation 29
Katerina Machova
2.1 Introduction 29
2.2 The way from idea to technical sheets 30
2.3 Pattern development 33
2.4 Basic pattern 36
2.5 Cutting and printing systems 39
2.6 Joining systems 42
2.7 Fitting systems 44
2.8 Conclusion 45
Sources of further information 46
References 46
3 Automation in production of yarns, woven, and knitted fabrics 49
Marco Saggiomo, Marko Wischnowski, Kristina Simonis and
Thomas Gries
3.1 Introduction 49
3.2 Types of industries 49
3.3 Global spinning machine manufacturers 50
3.4 Automation in production of sewing threads 54
3.5 Automation in production of woven fabrics 55
3.6 Automation in production of weft-knitted fabrics 63
3.7 Conclusion 71
References 72
4 Automation in fabric inspection 75
Ashvani Goyal
4.1 Introduction 75
4.2 Fabric inspection 75
4.3 Conventional fabric inspection techniques 76
4.4 Automatic fabric inspection techniques 78
4.5 Commercial automated fabric inspection systems 95
4.6 Conclusion 99
References 100
5 Artificial intelligence and its application in the apparel industry 109
Rajkishore Nayak and Rajiv Padhye
5.1 Introduction 109
5.2 Types of artificial intelligence 113
5.3 Applications of artificial intelligence in apparel industry 117
5.4 Challenges and future directions of artificial intelligence 129
5.5 Conclusion 131
Sources of further information 132
References 133
6 Automation in spreading and cutting 139
Ineta Vilumsone-Nemes
6.1 Introduction 139
6.2 The role of automation in textile material spreading and cutting 140
6.3 Automation in cutting room work process organization 140
6.4 Automated spreading methods and machines 143
6.5 Automated fabric pattern matching 147
6.6 Automated cutting methods and cutting systems 150
6.7 Fusing of cut components 159
6.8 Future trends in automation of textile material spreading and cutting 162
6.9 Conclusion 163
Further reading 163
7 Automation in material handling 165
Volker Lutz, Hans-Christian Früh, Thomas Gries and Josef Klingele
7.1 Introduction 165
7.2 Gripping technologies for textile handling 168
7.3 Automation in material handling related to high-performance
textiles 171
7.4 Digital tracking with radio-frequency identification 173
7.5 Conclusion 174
References 175
Further reading 177
8 Application of robotics in garment manufacturing 179
Thomas Gries and Volker Lutz
8.1 Introduction 179
8.2 Automation and robotics for sewing 180
8.3 Computer numerical control technologies for sewing process 182
8.4 Sewing automats and sewing units 184
8.5 Robotics for three-dimensional sewing operations 186
8.6 Real-time sewing cell with two lightweight industrial robots 189
8.7 Advantages and disadvantages of automation in sewing 194
8.8 Conclusion 194
References 196
Further reading 197
9 Automation in sewing technology 199
Prabir Jana
9.1 Introduction 199
9.2 Basic kinematics for continuous and cyclic
sewing machines 200
9.3 The building blocks of automation 206
9.4 Evolution of sewing automats 216
9.5 Sewing machines with under bed trimmer 218
9.6 Sewing machine with automatic bobbin changer 220
9.7 Sewing automats for gent’s and lady’s shirts 221
9.8 Sewing automats for casual bottom wear 223
9.9 Sewing automats for formal wear 225
9.10 Sewing automats for knitwear and intimate wear 227
9.11 Sewing automats for nonapparel sewn products 230
9.12 Sewing preparatory machines with automatic control system 231
9.13 Future trends 232
Sources of further information 233
References 235
Further reading 236
10 3D body scanning 237
Hein A.M. Daanen and Agnes Psikuta
10.1 Introduction 237
10.2 Body dimensions and garment sizing 237
10.3 3D body scanners 239
10.4 3D body scan 242
10.5 Virtual fit of garments 245
10.6 International standardization activities 248
10.7 Conclusion 250
References 250
11 Computer-aided design—garment designing and patternmaking 253
Yamini Jhanji
11.1 Role of computers in textile and apparel industry 253
11.2 Introduction to computer-aided design 254
11.3 Different software used in designing and garment construction 259
11.4 Computer-aided design for fabric design 265
11.5 Computer-aided design for apparel design 269
11.6 Computer-aided design for designing process 270
11.7 Computer-aided design in patternmaking 272
11.8 3D fashion design and development software 279
11.9 Computer-aided design in cutting room operations 285
11.10 Conclusion 289
References 289
12 Advancements in production planning and control 291
Sweta Patnaik and Asis Patnaik
12.1 Introduction 291
12.2 Automation in production systems 292
12.3 Automation in manufacturing systems 296
12.4 Advancements in production planning 299
12.5 Application of different software and planning tools in
production planning and control 303
12.6 Computerized manufacturing support systems 306
12.7 Recent trends 306
12.8 Conclusion 307
References 307
13 Use of advanced tools and equipment in industrial engineering 311
Maria-Carmen Loghin, Irina Ionescu, Emil-Constantin Loghin
and Ionuț Dulgheriu
13.1 Introduction 311
13.2 Work study 312
13.3 Motion study and standard time setting 335
13.4 Line balancing and work efficiency in clothing manufacturing 343
13.5 Conclusion 350
References 351
14 Automation in quality monitoring of fabrics and garment seams 353
Thomas Gries, Volker Lutz, Volker Niebel, Marco Saggiomo and
Kristina Simonis
14.1 Introduction 353
14.2 Quality monitoring of woven fabrics 353
14.3 Quality monitoring of seams 361
14.4 Quality monitoring of welded seams 369
14.5 Conclusion 373
Acknowledgements 373
References 374
15 Recent developments in the garment supply chain 377
Amanpreet Singh and Kanwalpreet Nijhar
15.1 Introduction 377
15.2 Garment supply chain activities 379
15.3 Contemporary issues in garment supply chain 384
15.4 Contemporary trends in apparel supply chain 387
15.5 Conclusion 393
References 393
Index 397