Contents 1 Introduction………………………………………………………………………………… 1
1.1 The European Textile and Clothing Industry in the Global
Environment – Reality and Challenges ………………………………….. 1
Lutz Walter, Mauro Scalia, Francesco Marchi
1.2 Rationale and Technological Approach of the European
Integrated Research Project LEAPFROG……………………………….. 4
Lutz Walter, Mauro Scalia
References……………………………………………………………………………………. 7
2 Automated G Assembly and Manufacturing Simulation ……………….. 9
2.1 Robotic 3D Garment Assembly and Automatic Material
Handling. Is it Feasible? ………………………………………………………. 9
Philipp Moll, Ulla Schütte, Kerstin Zöll
2.1.1 Robotic 3D Assembly ……………………………………………… 9
2.1.2 Industrial Robot Sewing Machine……………………………… 11
2.1.3 Adjustable 3D Mould………………………………………………. 14
2.1.4 Robotic Garment Production: from Traditional
Processes to the LEAPFROG Vision…………………………. 16
2.2 Garment Manufacturing Simulation ………………………………………. 19
Rezia Molfino, Enrico Carca, Matteo Zoppi, Fabio Bonsignorio,
Massimo Callegari, Andrea Gabrielli, Marco Principi
2.2.1 Introduction……………………………………………………………. 20
2.2.2 The Developed Garment Manufacturing Simulation ……. 23
2.2.3 Simulation Tests and Results ……………………………………. 27
2.2.4 Conclusions……………………………………………………………. 30
2.3 Robotic Soft Material Handling…………………………………………….. 31
Rezia Molfino, Matteo Zoppi, Enrico Carca
2.3.1 Introduction……………………………………………………………. 32
2.3.2 Soft Material Handling Tasks Requirements ………………. 33
2.3.3 Design Methodology……………………………………………….. 35
2.3.4 A New Concept Handling Robotic System…………………. 36
2.3.5 Conclusions……………………………………………………………. 41
2.4 Garment Manufacturing Plant Design and Concepts………………… 41
Rezia Molfino, Matteo Zoppi, Roberto Montorsi
2.4.1 Mass Customisation and Garment Industry ………………… 42
2.4.2 Garment Manufacturing Plant: System Hypotheses
and Concepts………………………………………………………….. 44
2.4.3 The New Material Transport System …………………………. 46
2.4.4 Control Architecture ……………………………………………….. 48
2.4.5 Example Application……………………………………………….. 49
2.4.6 Conclusions……………………………………………………………. 51
2.5 From CAD to Manufacturing –
Automated Robot Programming……………………………………………. 51
Claus Peter Eberhardt, Franz Engel
2.5.1 Introduction……………………………………………………………. 52
2.5.2 Idea and Concept…………………………………………………….. 53
2.5.3 Visual Motion Planner …………………………………………….. 54
2.5.4 Benefits …………………………………………………………………. 57
References……………………………………………………………………………………. 57
3 Innovative Textile Materials, Stiffening Procedures
and Fabric-Joining Methods………………………………………………………… 61
3.1 Shape-Memory Textile Polymer Fibres………………………………….. 61
Yan Ji, Mark Schaerlaekens, Eugene M. Terentjev
3.1.1 Introduction……………………………………………………………. 61
3.1.2 Chemistry of SMPs for Textile Fibres ……………………….. 63
3.1.3 Spinning of SMPU………………………………………………….. 67
3.1.4 Conclusion …………………………………………………………….. 74
3.2 Fabric Joining Equipment Preliminary Design
and Process Development…………………………………………………….. 74
Ian Jones, Roberto Landò, Stefano Carosio, Tanya Scalia,
Riccardo Baglini
3.2.1 Introduction……………………………………………………………. 74
3.2.2 Concept Equipment…………………………………………………. 77
3.2.3 Bonding-Process Development…………………………………. 80
3.2.4 Conclusion …………………………………………………………….. 83
3.3 Stiffening Agents and Process in Clothing……………………………… 84
Pierandrea Lo Nostro, Alessio Becheri, Luca Giustini,
Lucia Rodrigues, Angela Mendes
3.3.1 Introduction……………………………………………………………. 85
3.3.2 Materials and Methods…………………………………………….. 86
3.3.3 Results and Discussion…………………………………………….. 86
3.3.4 Conclusions……………………………………………………………. 90
References……………………………………………………………………………………. 91
4 Virtual Prototyping: From Concept to 3D Design and Prototyping
in Hours ……………………………………………………………………………………… 95
4.1 From 3D Design to 2D Patterns Involving Realistic Drape/Fit
and Comfort Simulation ………………………………………………………. 95
Yaron Goldstein
4.1.1 Introduction……………………………………………………………. 95
4.1.2 State-of-the-Art ………………………………………………………. 97
4.1.3 Market Research …………………………………………………….. 97
4.1.4 Methodology………………………………………………………….. 99
4.1.5 Conclusions……………………………………………………………. 105
4.2 Deriving Representative Human-Body Morphotypes
From Scanner-Based Sizing Surveys……………………………………… 106
Patrick Robinet
4.2.1 Introduction – Statistical Methodology to Define
Body Shapes…………………………………………………………… 106
4.2.2 Female Body-Shape Analysis …………………………………… 109
4.2.3 Male Body-Shape Analysis………………………………………. 113
4.2.4 Conclusion …………………………………………………………….. 116
4.3 CVP – A Collaborative Virtual Prototyping Platform………………. 117
George-Alexander Kartsounis, Florendia-Fourli Kartsouni,
Zoi Lentziou
4.3.1 Introduction……………………………………………………………. 117
4.3.2 The New Design Process Flow …………………………………. 118
4.3.3 CVP Architecture……………………………………………………. 121
4.3.4 CVP Functionality and User Interface ……………………….. 124
4.3.5 Conclusions……………………………………………………………. 126
4.4 A New Method of Estimating Fabric Simulation Parameters
Based on Automatic Image Analysis……………………………………… 127
Harris Georgiou, George-Alexander Kartsounis, Martin Rupp
4.4.1 Introduction……………………………………………………………. 127
4.4.2 Materials and Methods…………………………………………….. 129
4.4.3 Results…………………………………………………………………… 135
4.4.4 Conclusions……………………………………………………………. 137
References……………………………………………………………………………………. 138
5 New Quality of Partnership in the Textile World –
Concepts and Technologies ………………………………………………………….. 141
5.1 Introduction ……………………………………………………………………….. 141
Alexander Artschwager, Thomas Fischer, Dieter Stellmach
5.1.1 Integration for Networked TCI Organisations …………….. 142
5.1.2 The xSGO Integration Toolset ………………………………….. 145
5.1.3 Improved Collaboration for Quality Assurance …………… 147
5.1.4 Practical Experiences ………………………………………………. 150
5.1.5 Outlook …………………………………………………………………. 152
5.2 Engineering Value Networks in the Fashion Industry………………. 152
Ramón Yepes
5.2.1 The Emerging Organisation Models ………………………….. 153
5.2.2 The xSGO Paradigm ……………………………………………….. 154
5.2.3 Value Networks ……………………………………………………… 155
5.2.4 Fashion Networks …………………………………………………… 159
5.2.5 The Design of Fashion Networks………………………………. 162
5.3 Modelling Textile Networks…………………………………………………. 166
Michael Weiß
5.3.1 Textile Industry and Textile Networks……………………….. 166
5.3.2 Modelling Networks ……………………………………………….. 168
5.3.3 Smart Network Modelling ……………………………………….. 170
5.3.4 Experiences with Smart Network Modelling ………………. 171
5.3.5 Summary ……………………………………………………………….. 174
5.4 A Knowledge-Exchange Infrastructure to Support Extended
Smart Garment Organisations ………………………………………………. 175
Piero De Sabbata, Nicola Gessa, Gianluca D’Agosta,
Matteo Busanelli, Cristiano Novelli
5.4.1 Introduction……………………………………………………………. 175
5.4.2 State-of-the-Art ………………………………………………………. 177
5.4.3 The Approach: The Knowledge-Exchange
Infrastructure (KEI)…………………………………………………. 179
5.4.4 The Components of the Framework…………………………… 181
5.4.5 Conclusion …………………………………………………………….. 185
5.5 Supply Chain Event Management Integrated Product Tracking and Tracing……… 186
Jens Fabian, Mirko Morgenstern
5.5.1 Introduction……………………………………………………………. 186
5.5.2 Supply Chain Event Management
and Supply Chain Management ………………………………… 186
5.5.3 The Collaborative Platform TXTChain………………………. 188
5.5.4 Requirements for the Product Tracking System…………… 190
5.5.5 The PTS Data Model……………………………………………….. 191
5.5.6 Integration of the Product Tracking System ……………….. 193
5.5.7 Example Scenario …………………………………………………… 196
5.5.8 Outlook …………………………………………………………………. 197
References……………………………………………………………………………………. 197
6 Conclusions: Results Achieved, Lessons Learned, Follow-Up
Research Work and the Industry’s View on the Way Ahead …………. 201
George-Alexander Kartsounis, Dieter Stellmach, Lutz Walter
6.1 Overall Appraisal of the Results Achieved……………………………… 201
6.2 Lessons Learned from the LEAPFROG Project………………………. 202
6.3 Follow-Up Research Work…………………………………………………… 203
6.4 Industrial Appraisal of the Research Results and Reflections
on Possible Future Developments …………………………………………. 204
Index ………………………………………………………………………………………………….. 209