Patternmaking for Fashion Design

Preface:
Welcome to the fifth edition of Patternmaking for Fashion Design! Continuing with the success of the first four editions, this best-selling comprehensive patternmaking book proudly:

• Presents clear instruction, with corresponding easy-to-follow technical illustrations and up-todate fashion sketches that will stimulate the creative imagination of both technical and design-oriented students;
• Serves as a reference for the professional patternmaker and designer;
• Fills the need for basic foundation patterns; and
• Provides a variety of instruction so that the motivated student will continue to learn long after the classroom experience.

Based on the contributions of great patternmakers of the past, this new edition adds innovations and concepts gained through years of experience in the industry and classroom. It is comprehensive enough to be a valuable tool now and in the future regardless of fashion trends.

The book offers a DVD covering a number of topics, including:

• Original design thought problems.
• Draft of the basic pattern set developed by TukaTech and narrated by Harry Wessel.
• E-Simulation.

Organization of the Book:
To help facilitate instruction, the book is divided into eight parts; New information is indicated in italic type, as follows:

Part I, Chapter 1. Introductory information covers patternmaking tools, symbols, and definitions of the grain, and darts, plus added tools and up-to-date advances in CAD—E-Simulation. A self-evaluation test is provided.

Chapter 2. Discusses the ideal figure and standard measurements. Human variations are illustrated for comparison. Personal measurements are taken and recorded.

Chapter 3. An updated draft instruction for the basic patterns has been added. Fit problems and their solutions are included. Two tests are provided.

Part II, Chapter 4, Principle 1. Dart Manipulation is both a principle and a technique. A number of projects are given to reinforce understanding. The slash and pivotal techniques are illustrated. A self evaluation test completes the chapter.

Chapter 5. Basic darts are converted to “dart equivalents.” A number of projects show the versatility of the dart and its excess by applying the slash and pivotal methods.

Chapter 6. Princess, Armhole Princess, Panel, and the Empire are chosen as classic designs. Challenging design problems are updated.

Chapter 7, Principle 2. Added Fullness is illustrated by using the slash/spread and pivotal methods. Design projects are provided for common and unusual areas for gathers. Challenging design problems are updated.

Chapter 8. This chapter covers yokes, flanges, pin tucks, and pleat tucks designed on all types of garments. Challenging design problems are updated.

Chapter 9, Principle 3. Contouring is a principle and technique that allows the garment to fit the contours of the bust and other areas of the figure. A measuring technique illustrates the development of the Contour Guide Pattern for strapless, empire styles including cutout necklines and armholes.

Part III, Chapter 10. Collar classifications are based on two types: convertible (shirt, mandarin, collar/ stand types), and non-convertible (sailor and peter-pan types). Collars for stylized neckline. A test is provided.

Chapter 11. Discusses built-up necklines and inset bands. Design projects are provided.

Chapter 12. Begins with the theory of cowls. Mixes of cowl design projects challenge the learner. A test is provided.

Chapter 13. Four skirt foundations and their silhouettes are discussed. The sequence of the flare series starts with the basic flare skirt and ends with the Radius Chart for Circular skirts and Cascades. Pleated skirts, tiers, and more are illustrated. Sewing techniques are included. New designs have been added. A test is provided.

Chapter 14. Sleeve theory and terms are discussed. Hemline, cuff choices, slit, and updated placket are illustrated, including a sewing guide. A test is provided.

Chapter 15. Defines sleeve/bodice combinations: Kimono, raglan, drop shoulder, deep cut armhole. The gusset is included with sewing instruction. New styles have been added. A test is provided.

Part IV, Chapter 16. Button samples are shown with sizes for comparison. Basic button styles and standard closures provide the patternmaker with choices. Facings are included: separate and all-inone types. Tests are provided.

Chapter 17. Plackets are methods for entry when buttons are not desired. Several variations are illustrated. Pockets for skirts, pants, and other garments are illustrated; the chapter also covers stitch on and inserted pockets with sewing instructions. A test is provided.

Part V, Chapter 18. Introduces the torso foundation and three basic dress silhouettes. Popular styles—princess, panel and empire, tent, and special design drafts—complete the chapter. New styles have been added. The ultimate tests are provided.

Chapter 19. Three strapless styles are included: princess (two versions) and bra top. Discussion of boning types, sewing instruction for the under support, fitting problems, and corrections complete the chapter. Tests are provided.

Chapter 20. This chapter introduces the theory of the bias cut and is an example of combining drafting and draping of bias cut garments.

Part VI, Chapter 21. Three basic shirt styles are introduced: the basic yoke shirt, the casual, and the oversized shirt with sleeve modifications. Sleeve hemlines, cuff, and slit variations are illustrated. An updated placket and banding includes sewing instructions. A peasant blouse completes the chapter.

Chapter 22. The first part is devoted to female projects: jackets, collar/lapels, jacket, and sleeve foundations. Discussion of the under support precedes sewing instructions.

Chapter 23. Draft measurements are based on the 2008 New York Company Forms. Measuring techniques are given for other forms and personal fit. The chapter includes a basic jacket foundation and a basic and two piece sleeve. A design jacket, two shirts (dress and casual), a trouser, and jean complete this section.

Chapter 24. Two cape foundations, flared and straight-line, allow for creating designs. Contour and loose fitted hoods are illustrated.

Chapter 25. Several methods are offered for replicating designs by the rub-off and pin marking methods.

Part VII, Chapter 26. Covers four pant foundations, which are the basis for all women’s pant designs. Fit problems and corrections are included.

Chapters 27, 28, 29. These chapters cover important stretch and recovery factors of knits. A percentage stretch chart is helpful in selecting the correct knit for the use of the design. Three knit top foundations are illustrated in Chapter 28. A sewing guide is given to attach ribbing. Chapter 29 covers Lycra stretchable knits for creating body suit and leotard foundations.

Chapter 30. Swimwear can be cut in Lycra stretchable knits and woven fabrics. The four basic foundations give the designer freedom to create any swimwear garment of his or her imagination.

Part VIII, Chapters 31 through 37. These chapters cover children’s wear 3 to 6X and sizes 7 to 14 (both boys and girls). The chapters have foundations for bodice, dress, skirts, sleeves, jacket, tops, leotards, bodysuits, and swimwear draft. Tests are provided in Chapters 34 and 35.

Contents
A complete listing of the contents of each chapter appears on the chapter opening page.

Preface vii

Acknowledgments ix

PART 1

1 Patternmaking Essentials for the Workroom 1
2 Form Measurements and Figure Analysis 22
3 Drafting the Basic Pattern Set 37

PART 2

4 Dart Manipulation (Principle #1) 68
5 Designing with Darts (Tuck-Darts, Pleats, Flares, and Gathers) 98
6 Stylelines 121
7 Added Fullness (Principle #2) 132
8 Yokes, Flanges, Pin Tucks, and Pleat Tucks 144
9 Contouring (Principle #3) 158

PART 3

10 Collars 178
11 Built-Up Necklines 201
12 Cowls 208
13 Skirts/Circles and Cascades 230
14 Sleeves 301
15 Kimono, Raglan, Drop Shoulder, and Exaggerated Armholes 332

PART 4

16 Buttons, Buttonholes, and Facings 361
17 Plackets and Pockets 369

PART 5

18 Dresses Without Waistline Seams (Based on Torso Foundation) 384
19 Strapless Foundation and Interconstruction 405
20 Patternmaking for Bias-Cut Dresses 426

PART 6

21 Shirts 440
22 Women’s Jackets and Coats 458
23 Men’s Wear 491
24 Capes and Hoods 540
25 Knock-Off Copying Ready-Made Designs 552

PART 7

26 Pants 564
27 Knits—Stretch and Shrinkage Factors 626
28 Knit Top Foundations 632
29 Activewear for Dance and Exercise 640
30 Swimwear 658

PART 8

31 Introduction to Childrenswear 690
32 Drafting the Basic Pattern Set: Measurement Taking and Standard Measurement Charts 695
33 Collars, Sleeves, and Skirts 706
34 Dresses and Jumpers 717
35 Tops 727
36 Pants and Jumpsuits 749
37 Bodysuits, Leotards, Maillots, and Swimwear 770

Appendix 779
Bibliographic Credits 803
Answers to Self-Evaluation Tests 805
Index 807