Contents
List of contributors xiii
Preface xv
1 Introduction to sustainable fibres and textiles 1
Ponnusamy Senthil Kumar and Subburaj Suganya
1.1 Introduction 1
1.2 Principles of sustainability 2
1.3 Sustainable fibre production 6
1.4 Sustainability of textile industries 11
1.5 Future trends 14
Sources of further information and advice 16
References 17
Part One Sustainable fibre production 19
2 Sustainable cotton production 21
Shanthi Radhakrishnan
2.1 Introduction 21
2.2 Key sustainability issues in cotton farming 25
2.3 Sustainable crop management 35
2.4 Sustainability and selective breeding 42
2.5 Sustainable cotton processing 49
2.6 Future trends and conclusion 53
References 61
3 Sustainable production of bast fibres 69
Sanjoy Debnath
3.1 Introduction 69
3.2 Production of some important bast fibres: status of fibre extraction, mechanical processing (spinning and weaving) of bast fibres, chemical processing, product development, product diversification and added value 70
3.3 Sustainability of bast fibre in future 80
3.4 Conclusions and suggestions for further research for sustainable development of bast fibres 82
References 83
Further reading 85
4 Sustainable wool production in India 87
Ajay Kumar, Lesile L. Prince and Seiko Jose
4.1 Introduction 87
4.2 Sheep and wool production trend in India 88
4.3 Quality of Indian wool 91
4.4 Wool marketing practices in India 91
4.5 Sorting and grading of wool 92
4.6 Price structure of wool that arrives in mandies 92
4.7 Import of wool to India 94
4.8 Diversity in Indian sheep breeds 95
4.9 Apparel wool breeds 96
4.10 Carpet wool 96
4.11 Superior carpet wool breeds 97
4.12 Coarse wool breeds 99
4.13 Production system and farming practices 100
4.14 Breeding strategies for sustainable wool production 102
4.15 Cross-breeding involving exotic breeds: for fine wool production 102
4.16 Sustainability and selective breeding 105
4.17 Breeding strategies 106
4.18 Processing strategies for sustainable wool production 107
4.19 Process of removing coarser fibres 108
4.20 Geo-textile application of coarser wools 109
4.21 Wool nonwovens 110
4.22 Applications of wool nonwovens in filtration media 111
4.23 Applications of wool nonwovens in thermal insulation 111
4.24 Miscellaneous applications of wool nonwovens 112
4.25 Major constraints faced by wool in India 112
4.26 Conclusion 114
References 114
Further reading 115
5 Ecological dyeing of wool with biomordants 117
Shahid-ul-Islam and Faqeer Mohammad
5.1 Introduction 117
5.2 Biomordants in wool dyeing 118
5.3 Some natural colourants for wool 122
5.4 Current challenges in wool dyeing 127
5.5 Conclusion and future aspects 129
References 129
6 Sustainable silk production 135
T. Karthik and R. Rathinamoorthy
6.1 Introduction 135
6.2 Silk 136
6.3 Life-cycle assessment of silk production 141
6.4 Sustainable production of mulberry leaves 146
6.5 Sustainable dyeing of silk 150
6.6 Sustainable silk materials 154
6.7 Sustainable spider silk 160
6.8 Silk in sustainable luxury fashion 165
6.9 Conclusion and outlook 165
References 166
Further reading 170
7 Sustainable production of regenerated cellulosic fibres 171
Mohd Shabbir and Faqeer Mohammad
7.1 Introduction 171
7.2 Key sustainability issues in regenerated fibre production 172
7.3 Production of regenerated fibres 174
7.4 Closed-loop manufacturing of high wet modulus rayon and Lyocell 175
7.5 High wet modulus rayon 178
7.6 Lyocell manufacturing 179
7.7 Production of regenerated bamboo fibres 182
7.8 Future trends 184
7.9 Conclusion 186
Sources of further information and advice 186
Acknowledgements 186
References 187
8 Sustainable synthetic fibre production 191
T. Karthik and R. Rathinamoorthy
8.1 Introduction 191
8.2 Environmental impact of textiles 192
8.3 Biodegradable polymers 193
8.4 Sustainable production of polyester fibres 196
8.5 Sustainable nylon 213
8.6 Sustainable carbon fibre production 222
8.7 Recycling of synthetic fibres 227
8.8 Conclusions and outlook 230
References 231
Further reading 240
Part Two Sustainable textile and apparel production 241
9 Low water-consumption technologies for textile production 243
Shanmugasundaram O. Lakshmanan and Guruprasad Raghavendran
9.1 Introduction 243
Technologies to reduce water footprint of textile products 247
9.2 Plasma technology 247
9.3 Ultrasonic-assisted dyeing technology 250
9.4 Supercritical carbon dioxide technology 253
9.5 Conclusion 259
References 259
Further reading 265
10 Sustainable chemical technologies for textile production 267
Asim K. Roy Choudhury
10.1 Introduction 267
10.2 Sustainability 267
10.3 Sustainability issues in current textile production 268
10.4 Sustainable processing 274
10.5 Greener textile materials 275
10.6 Greener preparatory processes 287
10.7 Enzyme processing 288
10.8 Greener bleaching methods 293
10.9 Colouring matters 294
10.10 Textile chemicals 298
10.11 Greener dyeing processes 299
10.12 Future trends 314
References 315
Further reading 322
11 Sustainable wastewater treatments in textile sector 323
Ponnusamy Senthil Kumar and Anbalagan Saravanan
11.1 Introduction 323
11.2 Wastewater treatment in textile industry 326
11.3 Pollution loads for various textile materials 330
11.4 Laws for wastewater textile pollutants in various countries 333
11.5 Sustainable chemicals 335
11.6 Sustainable wastewater treatment methods 336
11.7 Case studies 340
11.8 Challenges 341
11.9 Future trends 342
11.10 Conclusion 343
Sources of further information and advice 344
References 344
12 Sustainable chemical management and zero discharges 347
K. Amutha
12.1 Introduction 347
12.2 Sustainability issues in the current scenario 347
12.3 Detox campaign 349
12.4 Zero discharge of hazardous chemicals and similar industrial initiatives 351
12.5 11 Flagship chemicals and zero discharge of hazardous chemicals audits 353
12.6 Restricted substances list and manufacturing restricted substances list 357
12.7 Substance of very high concern 359
12.8 Zero liquid discharge 361
12.9 Industry trends: sustainable chemical management and zero discharges 362
12.10 Challenges 363
12.11 Future trends 364
12.12 Conclusion 364
Sources of further information and advice 365
References 365
Further reading 366
13 Sustainable production and application of natural fibre-based nonwoven 367
Sanjoy Debnath
13.1 Introduction: nonwovens and their types, consumption and world share of nonwovens and natural fibre-based nonwovens 367
13.2 Design, development and application of natural fibre-based nonwovens: current status of natural fibre-based nonwovens and an evaluation of their different properties for specific application, product diversification and added value 369
13.3 Sustainability of lignocellulosic fibre-based nonwovens in future technical textiles 382
13.4 Conclusions and suggestions for further research 388
References 389
Further reading 391
Index 393