Editors’ Preface
In advanced countries as well as developing countries, the textile and garment industry still plays an important role in economy, in terms of production and employment. However, there exist many barriers in this industrial field that are pressing companies to face the following competitive challenges:
- Shorter product life cycles: distributors and consumers are looking for more variety and personalization.
- Lack of flexibility in the supply chain.
- Cost reduction: retailers do not want to lose their sales margins which generates a pressure to compete for cheaper prices on products.
- Homogeneity need: the lack of integration, the heterogeneity and the lack of standards is a chronic weakness of the textile and garment industry.
- Consumers demand more comfortable textile and apparel products as casualization becomes a global trend over the decades.
- Biofunctional performance of textile devices and apparel products becomes critical area of concerns as more and more consumers pay attention to making healthy lifestyles.
Under this challenging economic pressure, there is a strong need to develop new methods in order to optimize the quality of textile products and textile management. Information technology, especially computational techniques can play an important role in this optimization.
Since 1950’s, computational techniques have been widely applied in textile industry and garment industry for process and materials’ structure modeling, simulation and control, optimization of product quality, product design, textile market forecasting, and production management. The related computational techniques include classical methods such as statistics, differential equations, classical signal and image processing (time series analysis and frequency analysis) and statistical pattern recognition, and intelligent techniques such as soft computing and data mining. Classical methods are essentially based on formalization of physical laws and analysis of measured numerical data while intelligent methods often deal with uncertainty and imprecision related to human knowledge on products and processes and linguistic data analysis. The selection of specific computational techniques is strongly related to the nature of the problem of interest.
In general, an optimal solution to a complex textile problem can be found by combining several complementary techniques in a suitable way.
This edited book reports recent research results and provides a state-ofthe- art on computational techniques in textile and garment applications. The main objective of this book is to gather a peer-reviewed collection of high quality contributions in the relevant topic areas. Textile engineers in companies and technical centres as well as applied researchers and research students working on different textile topics can benefit from this book. The contributions of this book are mainly extracted from the special sessions on textile of the 17th IMACS Congress (IMACS’2005), held in
Paris in July 2005. The following criteria have been used in screening the chapters:
- Quality and originality in methodology,
- Application oriented papers exhibiting originality with reasonable theory involved,
- Relevance to computational techniques and textile industrial/engineering applications.
This book collects a number of representative applications of computational techniques in textile and garment industry. These applications cover the following issues:
- Textile quality assessment by image analysis,
- Modeling and simulation of textile structures,
- Computer aided garment design,
- Computerized textile management and textile Supply Chain,
- Textile quality subjective and objective evaluation;
- Computational thermal bioengineering of textiles and clothing;
- Computational biomechanical engineering of textiles an clothing.
The volume starts with an introduction chapter, entitled “From biological macromolecules to drape of clothing: 50 years of computing for tex tiles” and written by Prof. J.W.S. Hearle of University of Manchester. In this chapter, the author presented an overview of computing techniques (software and hardware) in various textile applications, including modelling of fibre, yarn and textile structure, modelling of textile mechanics, modelling of fabric drape, and textile and garment CAD.
Contents
From Biological Macromolecules to Drape
of Clothing: 50 Years of Computing for Textiles……………………….1
John Hearle
Part I: TEXTILE QUALITY ASSESSMENT FROM IMAGE
ANALYSIS………………………………………………………………… 21
Transform……………………………………………………………… 23
Stuart Palmer and Xungai Wang
Selecting Relevant Features from Fabric Images for Automated
Quality Control of Seam Puker Using Data Analysis
and Human Experts Grading………………………………………… 39
Ludovic Koehl, Jawad Chraïbi Miou, Xianyi Zeng
Part II: MODELLING AND SIMULATION OF TEXTILE
STRUCTURES…………………………………………………………….. 55
Complex Characterization of Yarn Unevenness..…………………… 57
Jiří Militký and Sayed Ibrahim
Computer Simulation of Woven Structures Based on Actual
Yarn Photographs…………………………………………………… 75
Hakan Özdemir and Güngör Başer
Computation of Permeability of Textile with Experimental
Validation for Monofilament and Non Crimp Fabrics……………… 93
B. Verleye, M. Klitz, R. Croce, D. Roose, S.V. Lomov, I. Verpoest
Part III: COMPUTER AIDED GARMENT DESIGN……………………… 111
Measuring Geodesic Body Measurements with Distributed
Collocation Method…………………………………………………… 113
Roger Ng and Glory T.y. Pong
Isomorphic Mesh of Human Body Surface for Computerized
Apparel Design………………………………………………………… 129
Shigeru Inui, , Kaori Hara, Hidehiko Okabe, Tomoe Masuda
Integration of an Adaptive CAD System for Flexible
Furniture Industry…………………..………………………………… 147
Nicolas Ansel, Sébastien Thomassey, Pascal Bruniaux, Xianyi Zeng
Part IV: COMPUTERIZED TEXTILE MANAGEMENT AND TEXTILE
SUPPLY CHAIN…………………………………………………………… 167
is a Newsboy Model ?………………………………………………………………….. 169
Pierre Douillet, Besoa Rabenasolo
Developing an Apparel Supply Chain Simulation System with the Application of Fuzzy Logic…………………………185
A.H. Dong, W.K. Wong, S.F. Chan, P.K.W. Yeung
Part V: COMPUTATIONAL THERMAL BIOENGINEERING OF TEXTILES 201
Computational Textile Bioengineering………………………………. 203
Yi Li
FeaFur: A Computer Software Package for Simulating
Human Thermophysiological Responses in Dynamic
Thermal Environment………………………………………………… 223
Yi Li, Zhong Wang, Ruomei Wang, Aihua Mao, Yubei Lin
Computational Investigation of Thermoregulatory
Effects of Multi-Layer PCM Textile Assembly……………………… 235
B.A. Ying, Y.L. Kwok, Y. Li, C.Y. Yeung, Q.Y. Zhu, F.Z. Li
Computational Simulation of Multi-Phase Coupled Heat and Moisture Transfer in Phase Change and Self-Heating Porous Materials……….. 247
Sheng Li, Yi Li, Fengzhi Li, Shuxiao Wang
Numerical Simulation of Heat and Moisture Transfer in Porous
Walls with Microencapsulated PCM………………………………… 255
Y.Li, X.Wang, S. Li, J.L. Niu
Mathematical Simulation of Human Psychological Perception of
Moisture Sensation…………………………………………………….. 265
A.S.W. Wong, Y. Li, E. Newton
Part VI: COMPUTATIONAL BIOMECHANICAL ENGINEERING OF TEXTILES. 275
A CAD System for the Biomechanical Sensory Engineering of Clothing…… 277
Ruomei Wang, Yi Li, Xin Zhang, Xiaonan Luo, Xiaoqun Dai
The Simulation of Elastic Human Body Deformation and Garment Pressure with Moving Mesh Method………………… 289
Fang You, Jian-Min Wang, Guo-Jun Liao
Numerical Simulation of Skin Pressure Distribution 301
X.Q. Dai, R. Liu, Y. Li, M. Zhang, Y.L. Kwok
Computational Modeling the Foot-Insole Interface………………… 311
Ming Zhang, Jason Tak-Man Cheung, Yi Li
Computational Simulation of Skin and Sock Pressure
Distributions…………………………………………………………… 323
Ming Zhang, X. Q. Dai, Y. Li, Jason Tak-Man Cheung
SUBJECT INDEX…………………………………………………………..335