Contents
Author contact details xi
Woodhead Publishing in Textiles xiii
Preface xix
1 Handle and making-up performance of fabrics and garments 1
L. Hunter and E . L . Hunter
1.1 Introduction 1
1.2 Fabric Objective Measurement (FOM) of fabric handle and making-up performance 4
1.3 Other methods 27
1.4 Effects of fibre properties 28
1.5 Effects of yarn properties 30
1.6 Effects of fabric properties 31
1.7 Effects of dyeing and fi nishing (chemical and mechanical) treatments 33
1.8 General points 38
1.9 Sources of further information and advice 42
1.10 References 42
2 Wrinkling of fabrics and garments 52
L. Hunter
2.1 Introduction 52
2.2 The measurement of wrinkle and crease recovery 54
2.3 Surface smoothness after repeated laundering 55
2.4 Factors affecting fabric wrinkling and recovery 55
2.5 Factors affecting wrinkling during wear 57
2.6 Effects of fi bre properties 58
2.7 Effects of yarn and fabric parameters 62
2.8 Effects of fi bre, yarn and fabric processing parameters 65
2.9 Sources of further information and advice 67
2.10 Concluding remarks 68
2.11 References 68
3 Pilling of fabrics and garments 71
L. Hunter
3.1 Introduction 71
3.2 Effects of fi bre composition and properties 75
3.3 Effects of yarn structure and properties 79
3.4 Effects of fabric structure and properties 81
3.5 Effects of fi bre, yarn and fabric processing parameters 82
3.6 Sources of further information and advice 83
3.7 Concluding remarks 83
3.8 References 85
4 Bagging of fabrics and garments 87
L. Hunter
4.1 Introduction 87
4.2 The measurement of bagging 90
4.3 Effects of fi bre properties 95
4.4 Effects of yarn properties 96
4.5 Effects of fabric properties 96
4.6 Effects of garment construction 97
4.7 Effect of fi nishing 97
4.8 Fabric bagging prediction and modelling 97
4.9 Sources of further information and advice 99
4.10 Concluding remarks 99
4.11 References 100
5 Fabric and garment drape 102
L. Hunter, J. Fan and D. Chau
5.1 Introduction 102
5.2 Drape measurement 103
5.3 Engineering fabric drape 107
5.4 Empirical prediction of drape 111
5.5 Modelling fabric and garment drape 117
5.6 Drape models in CAD and Internet systems 121
5.7 Sources of further information and advice 124
5.8 Concluding remarks 124
5.9 References 125
6 Appearance issues in garment processing 131
J. Fan, L. L au and L. Hunter
6.1 Introduction 131
6.2 Seam appearance 131
6.3 Appearance issues in fusing 141
6.4 Appearance issues in garment dyeing 147
6.5 Appearance issues in pressing 152
6.6 Storage and packaging 155
6.7 Concluding remarks 156
6.8 References 157
7 Durability of fabrics and garments 161
L. Hunter
7.1 Introduction 161
7.2 Abrasion resistance 165
7.3 Fabric and garment strength 174
7.4 Effects of dyeing and fi nishing on fabric strength 193
7.5 Modelling and predicting fabric strength 194
7.6 Sources of further information and advice 195
7.7 Concluding remarks 195
7.8 References 195
8 Physiological comfort of fabrics and garments 201
J. Fa n
8.1 Introduction 201
8.2 Different aspects of clothing physiological comfort 202
8.3 Tactile comfort 202
8.4 Assessment of tactile comfort 208
8.5 Thermophysiological comfort 211
8.6 Liquid water transport properties of fabrics and clothing 227
8.7 Garment fit and ease of body movement 234
8.8 Pressure comfort 238
8.9 Concluding remarks 242
8.10 References 242
9 Psychological comfort of fabrics and garments 251
J. Fa n
9.1 Introduction 251
9.2 Assessment of psychological comfort 252
9.3 Factors affecting psychological comfort 254
9.4 Effects of colour and surface texture 254
9.5 Effect of garment design 257
9.6 Effects of garment sizing and fi t 258
9.7 Fashion and prejudice 258
9.8 Concluding remarks 258
9.9 References 259
10 Flammability of fabrics and garments 261
J. Fa n and L. L au
10.1 Introduction 261
10.2 Burning mechanisms 261
10.3 Index for burning behaviour of textiles 262
10.4 Effects of fi bre composition, structure and properties 264
10.5 Effects of yarn structure and properties 267
10.6 Effects of fabric structure and properties 270
10.7 Effects of fi bre, yarn and fabric processing parameters 271
10.8 Effect of garment design 274
10.9 Test methods and standards for textiles and apparel 275
10.10 Concluding remarks 280
10.11 References 280
11 Waterproofi ng and breathability of fabrics and garments 283
L. Hunter and J. Fa n
11.1 Introduction 283
11.2 Defi nitions 285
11.3 Measurement of waterproofi ng and breathability 286
11.4 Engineering fabric and garment breathability 289
11.5 Fabric fi nishes 298
11.6 Construction of showerproof garments 300
11.7 Comparative fabric and garment properties 304
11.8 Sources of further information and advice 304
11.9 Concluding remarks 305
11.10 References 305
12 Ultraviolet protection of fabrics and garments 309
L. Hunter
12.1 Introduction 309
12.2 Measurement of UV protection 318
12.3 Effects of fi bre properties 324
12.4 Effects of yarn properties 327
12.5 Effects of fabric structure and properties 327
12.6 Effects of dyeing, fi nishing and other chemical treatments 330
12.7 Sources of further information and advice 333
12.8 Concluding remarks 333
12.9 References 334
13 Laundry performance of fabrics and garments 339
L. L au and J. Fa n
13.1 Introduction 339
13.2 Laundering 340
13.3 Care labels 340
13.4 Effects of fi bre composition, structure and properties 341
13.5 Effects of sewing thread linear density 348
13.6 Effects of fabric structure and properties 348
13.7 Effects of colouration and fi nishing 351
13.8 Effect of garment design 353
13.9 Test methods and standards related to laundering and care labelling 356
13.10 Concluding remarks 358
13.11 References 358
14 Applications of artifi cial intelligence in fabric and garment engineering 361
J. Fa n
14.1 Introduction 361
14.2 Expert systems 362
14.3 Artifi cial neural networks (ANNs) 365
14.4 Concluding remarks 378
14.5 References 379
Index 383