TABLE OF CONTENTS
COTTON SPINNING …………………………………………………………………………………….. 11
Carded cotton spinning………………………………………………………………………………………………………..11
Combed cotton spinning ……………………………………………………………………………………………………..12
Open-end spinning ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………..13
RAW STOCK OPENING AND CLEANING…………………………………………………… 14
Carding ………………………………………………………………………………………………………….. 26
General remarks …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………26
Wiring and clothing ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………26
Card ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….28
Flats …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………29
Automatic cleaning of the card……………………………………………………………………………………………..31
Sliver count autolevelling…………………………………………………………………………………………………….32
Recycling process waste………………………………………………………………………………………………………33
Doubling and Drawing ……………………………………………………………………………………. 36
Drawframe ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………..36
Drawing aggregate ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………..37
Combing…………………………………………………………………………………………………………. 40
Combing machine……………………………………………………………………………………………………………….41
Combing stages ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….43
Spinning ………………………………………………………………………………………………………… 45
Roving frame……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………..46
Ring spinning frame …………………………………………………………………………………………………………..50
Open-end spinning frame …………………………………………………………………………………………………….57
Winding …………………………………………………………………………………………………………. 60
Retraction winding machine for bulky yarn production……………………………………………………………62
Waxing …………………………………………………………………………………………………………… 63
Singeing …………………………………………………………………………………………………………. 63
Doubling ………………………………………………………………………………………………………… 64
Twisting …………………………………………………………………………………………………………. 64
Reeling …………………………………………………………………………………………………………… 68
Winding-off…………………………………………………………………………………………………….. 68
Automation of Transportation and Packing Operations …………………………………… 69
WOOLLEN SPINNING ………………………………………………………………………………….74
Woollen spinning cycle ………………………………………………………………………………………………………74
Preparation ……………………………………………………………………………………………………. 75
Introduction ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………75
Bale plucking …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….76
Dedusting …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………77
Opening ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………77
Oiling ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….78
Blending …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………..79
Plucking with blending apron……………………………………………………………………………………………….80
Storage and carding room supplying …………………………………………………………………………………….81
Automation and safety ………………………………………………………………………………………………………..81
Carding …………………………………………………………………………………………………………..83
Carding functions ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………… 83
Operation of the card …………………………………………………………………………………………………………. 83
Clothings………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….. 85
Loader …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….. 86
The carding room equipment………………………………………………………………………………………………. 87
Workplace safety and technical features ………………………………………………………………………………. 90
Settings and production ……………………………………………………………………………………………………… 90
Automatic quill doffing ……………………………………………………………………………………………………… 91
Ring Spinning ………………………………………………………………………………………………….92
Working principle……………………………………………………………………………………………………………… 92
Short fibre drafting …………………………………………………………………………………………………………… 93
Spinfinger ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………… 94
Ring ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….. 95
Spinning machine automation …………………………………………………………………………………………….. 96
Selfacting Spinning Machine…………………………………………………………………………….98
Working principle……………………………………………………………………………………………………………… 98
Automation ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………. 101
Technical features……………………………………………………………………………………………………………. 102
Fancy Yarns…………………………………………………………………………………………………..103
General remarks ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………… 103
Spun fancy yarns …………………………………………………………………………………………………………….. 103
Friction spinning machine ………………………………………………………………………………………………… 104
Twisted fancy yarns ………………………………………………………………………………………………………… 105
Spinning.twisting machine ……………………………………………………………………………………………… 107
Technical features of spinning-twisting machines ……………………………………………………………….. 109
WO110RSTED WOOL SPINNING ………………………………………………………………110
Scouring of Greasy Wool ……………………………………………………………………………….110
Composition of a scouring line………………………………………………………………………………………….. 110
Pre-opening ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………. 111
Blending ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….. 112
Opening and beating ……………………………………………………………………………………………………….. 112
Weight check …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………. 114
Opening degree ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………. 114
Scouring ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………… 114
Drying …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………… 119
Oiling ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………. 125
Carding ………………………………………………………………………………………………………..125
General remarks ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………… 125
Interactions between clothing and fibres ……………………………………………………………………………. 126
The carding unit ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………… 127
Tandem card ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….. 133
Card with double comber………………………………………………………………………………………………….. 143
Post-carding lap drawing frame ………………………………………………………………………………………… 144
Combing ………………………………………………………………………………………………………. 146
General remarks ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………146
Preparation for combing ……………………………………………………………………………………………………147
Combing …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………153
Post-combing …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………..165
Blending and Recombing ……………………………………………………………………………… 167
General remarks ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………167
Sliver blending ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………..168
Preparation to recombing ………………………………………………………………………………………………….170
Recombing ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………..170
Post-recombing ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………..170
Electronic autoleveller ………………………………………………………………………………………………………171
Spinning ………………………………………………………………………………………………………. 172
General remarks ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………172
Preparation for spinning ……………………………………………………………………………………………………172
Ring spinning ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….183
Foreword
I am pleased to present the fourth handbook in the series on textile machinery technology that the ACIMIT Foundation is publishing for use in Italy.s institutes of textile technology. This handbook looks at the machinery, accessories, auxiliary equipment and technologies relating to .cotton and wool spinning., a further sector in which Italy boasts companies of international prominence and remarkable expertise.
This .spinning. handbook follows the ones on .weaving., .knitting. and .finishing., all of which have now reached their second edition, the 12,000 copies printed to date bearing witness to the interest generated by the series.
A fifth book, on .chemical fibres. is currently being produced to complete the series. The need to publish these books emerged in the course of a series of meetings that ACIMIT had with principals and teachers in the context of various initiatives designed to promote relations between the industry and schools.
We were told that the textbooks currently in use do not reflect the continued and rapid technological evolution the sector has seen in recent years.
With the precise aim of publishing handbooks that respond, as far as possible, to students. learning needs, the ACIMIT Foundation decided, in agreement with the schools. principals, to entrust a group of teachers from the schools themselves with the task of realising the series of books. The teachers involved accepted this challenge enthusiastically.
Thanks therefore go, on behalf of Italy.s textile machinery manufacturers, to the principals and teachers whose schools are source of valuable human resources, essential for the development of their industrial concerns.
Since no job is ever done to perfection the first time round, we will be grateful to anyone (students, teachers, company engineers and technicians, etc.) who sends us suggestions and corrections that might enable us to improve this publication and increase the value of the whole enterprise.