Contents
TOOLS AND SUPPLIES
Sewing Machines 6
Sewing Machine Feet 7
Cutting Tools 10
Pressing Tools 12
Marking Tools 13
Sewing Machine Needles 14
Straight Pins 15
Thread 16
Elastic 17
Other Notions 18
STITCHES AND SEAMS
Stitches 20
Seam Allowances 23
Curved Seams 24
Simple Seam Finishes 25
Couture Seam Finishes 27
Hems 29
MATERIALS
Fabric 32
Interfacing 34
Other Fusible Products 38
Stuffing 38
Batting 39
EDGE TREATMENTS
Gathering 40
Ruffles 43
Bias Tape 45
Piping 52
Trims 55
ZIPPERS
Zipper Length 58
Stitching Zippers 59
Centered Zipper Installation 60
Lapped Zipper Installation 62
Invisible Zipper Installation 64
BUTTONHOLES AND BUTTONS
Buttonholes 66
Buttons 70
HOME DECOR
Bed Coverings 72
Pillows 76
Bed Skirts 82
Curtains 83
Table Linens 87
SEWN ACCESSORIES
Belts and Key Fobs 94
Bags 97
GARMENT MAKING
Making Darts 102
Adding Facings 103
Linings 104
Sewing Casings 105
Sewing Set-In Sleeves 106
Patterns 108
Ease 112
Adjusting for Height 113
Adjusting for Girth 115
SIZE CHARTS
Infants’, Toddlers’, and Little Kids’ Sizes 116
Infants’ and Toddlers’ Vertical Measurements 117
Little Kids’ Vertical Measurements 118
Girls’ Sizes 119
Boys’ Sizes 119
Girls’ and Boys’ Vertical Measurements 119
Misses’ Sizes 120
Women’s Sizes 120
Misses’ and Women’s Vertical Measurements 121
Men’s Sizes 122
Men’s Vertical Measurements 122
NUMBER CONVERSIONS
Decimals to Fractions 123
Yards to Inches to Decimals 123
Yards to Centimeters/ Meters 123
Index 124
About the Author 127
Tools and Supplies Sewing Machines
BASIC MECHANICAL SEWING MACHINE
Simple, motorized machine that makes straight, zigzag, and usually a few decorative stitches. Stitch settings are controlled manually with knobs.
EMBROIDERY MACHINE
Stitches digitized embroidery design files. It can be a stand-alone machine or a module that works in combination with a computerized machine.
Essential Sewing Reference Tool
COMPUTERIZED SEWING MACHINE
Makes a wide variety of utility and decorative stitches. Stitch settings are controlled by buttons or a touch screen that is connected to an internal computer chip.
EMBROIDERY MACHINE
Stitches digitized embroidery design files. It can be a stand-alone machine or a module that works in combination with a computerized machine.
QUILTING MACHINE
Features a larger work area and more advanced feeding mechanisms than a standard computerized machine.
OVERLOCK MACHINE
Also known as a serger. Utilizes multiple threads to simultaneously stitch and finish seams. Features include a blade for trimming edges prior to stitching and a stitch finger for creating rolled hems.
Cutting Tools
GENERAL SEWING SCISSORS
Ideal size and angle for snipping thread and fabric during the sewing process.
DRESSMAKER’S SHEARS
Large, heavy scissor angled for cutting out large pieces of fabric.
PINKING SHEARS
Large scissor with notched blades that produces nonfraying zigzag cuts.
APPLIQUÉ SCISSORS
Small, with a “duck bill” that acts as a guide for close cutting while protecting fabric.
THREAD SNIPS
Small spring-loaded clipper for quick, efficient thread snipping.
EMBROIDERY SCISSORS
Small, with sharp blades that fit into hard-to-reach areas to snip threads with precision.
ROTARY CUTTER
Circular blade that works in conjunction with a clear cutting ruler and a rotary cutting mat. Ideal for making straight cuts of fabric.
Pressing Tools
IRON AND IRONING BOARD
To smooth fabric and press seams during the sewing process.
SLEEVE BOARD
Small tabletop ironing board that fits into cylindrical shapes, such as sleeves, for crease-free pressing.
SEAM ROLL
Stuffed fabric roll similar to a sleeveboard but smaller and more flexible.May also be wooden.
TAILOR’S HAM
Tightly stuffed fabric pillow with a wide end and a narrow end, used for pressing darts and curved seams.
PRESSING CLOTH
Placed over fabric while pressing to protect the fabric from the surface of the iron.
TEFLON PRESSING SHEET
Heat-resistant, nonstick material that allows for the application of double-sided fusible products to fabric. Also useful as a see-through pressing cloth.