Clothing in 17th-Century Provincial England
by Danae Tankard
Contents
List of Illustrations vi
Acknowledgements ix
List of Abbreviations xi
1 Introduction 1
2 Literary Constructions of Clothing, the Individual and Society 23
3 Clothing and Textile Production, Distribution and Acquisition 47
4 London and the Provincial Consumer 73
5 Th e Clothing of Provincial Gentlemen 99
6 Th e Clothing of Provincial Gentlewomen 129
7 Th e Clothing of the Poor 157
Conclusion 181
Notes 189
Bibliography 237
Index 257
List of Illustrations
1.1 Map of southern England, showing location of Sussex and its principal towns. 3
1.2 Map of Sussex, showing location of market towns and places of residence of men and women featuring in case studies. 19
1.3 John Speed’s map of Chichester, 1610. 20
2.1 Wenceslaus Hollar, Adam ploughing from ‘Th e Dance
of Death’, 1651. 24
2.2 London- made silver snuff box with ‘bawdy’ picture, c. 1680. 32
2.3 Marcellus Laroon, London courtesan from his series ‘Th e Cries
of the City of London’, 1688. 33
2.4 Woodcut of a country man from ‘Downright Dick of the West’,
1685–8. 44
3.1 Trade token of Edward Waters of Horsted Keynes, tailor, 1668. 52
3.2 Extract from probate inventory of Michael Woodgate of
Horsham, mercer, 1679. 59
3.3 Trade token of Edmund Middleton of Lewes, haberdasher, 1666. 62
3.4 Pedlar with his pack from ‘Sorrowful Lamentation of the Pedlars
and Petty Chapmen for the Hardness of the Times and the Decay
of Trade’, 1685–8. 64
3.5 Marcellus Laroon, second- hand clothes seller from his series
‘Th e Cries of the City of London’, 1688. 66
3.6 Extract from probate inventory of Edward Napper of Chichester,
cordwainer, 1623. 70
4.1 Print of Mercers’ Hall, showing row of shops on the ground
fl oor, 1680. 77
4.2 Wenceslaus Hollar, Interior View of the Royal Exchange, 1647. 78
4.3 Trade card of Th omas Jacomb, glove seller, c. 1700. 80
4.4 Page from Giles Moore’s account book, showing entries for
1656–9. 86
4.5 Wenceslaus Hollar, Th e Winter Habit of an English
Gentlewoman, 1644. 89
4.6 Letter sent by James Gresham to Judith Morley, January 1641. 92
5.1 Short doublet and petticoat breeches made in England or
France, 1660. 102
5.2 Brown worsted coat and breeches, c. 1680, shown with brown
worsted cloak, c. 1670. 105
5.3 Jean Dieu de Saint Jean, ‘Homme de Qualit é en Habit d’Hiver’, 1678. 106
5.4 Leonard Knyff , Portrait of Arthur Ingram, 3rd Viscount
Irwin, 1700. 108
5.5 Unknown artist, Edward Sparke (d. 1693), vicar of Tottenham
and chaplain to Charles II, wearing skull cap, bands and
gown, 1666. 111
5.6 Silver tobacco box engraved with coat of arms, made in London
possibly by Caleb Westbrooke, 1691–2. 115
5.7 ‘Lord Clapham’, one of a pair of fashion dolls, c. 1690. 117
5.8 Letter from James Wightman to Samuel Jeake, undated, probably
April 1681. 121
5.9 Pages from Richard Stapley’s memorandum book, 1684–5. 123
5.10 Calendar watch made by Benjamin Hill, 1650–1660. 125
6.1 Ivory satin bodice trimmed with bobbin lace with parchment
and coloured silk, stiff ened with whalebone, 1660–9. 131
6.2 ‘Lady Clapham’, one of a pair of fashion dolls, c. 1690. 133
6.3 Tin- glazed earthenware dish, ‘Th e À -la- mode Dress or the
Maiden’s Mode Admired and Continued by the Ape, Owl and
Mistress Puss’, 1688. 134
6.4 Cornelius Johnson, Portrait of Lady Coventry, c. 1635. 141
6.5 Wenceslaus Hollar, Still life with muff s, gloves, fans, mask and
kerchiefs, 1647. 142
6.6 Wenceslaus Hollar, Portrait of a young woman, showing the
fashionable hairstyle of the 1640s, 1642. 143
6.7 Peter Lely, Portrait of a young woman, c. 1662–3. 148
6.8 Nicolas Arnoult, ‘Th e Iron Age’ from his series ‘Th e Four Ages
of Man’, c. 1690. 151
6.9 Letter from Samuel Jeake to Elizabeth Jeake, 1699. 153
7.1 Jacques Callot, Beggars, 1630. 158
7.2 Jacques Callot, Marching gypsies, 1621–31. 161
7.3 Charles Beale, Portrait of an elderly woman, possibly a
household servant, 1680. 164
7.4 Randle Holme’s original drawings of working men for his
Academy of Armory (Chester, 1688). 166
7.5 Cowfold overseers’ account for the cost of clothing Jonathan
Mote, 1642. 172
7.6 Edward Barlow’s drawing of himself leaving home aged
fourteen, 1673. 174
1.2 Map of Sussex, showing location of market towns and places of residence of men and women featuring in case studies. 19
1.3 John Speed’s map of Chichester, 1610. 20
2.1 Wenceslaus Hollar, Adam ploughing from ‘Th e Dance
of Death’, 1651. 24
2.2 London- made silver snuff box with ‘bawdy’ picture, c. 1680. 32
2.3 Marcellus Laroon, London courtesan from his series ‘Th e Cries
of the City of London’, 1688. 33
2.4 Woodcut of a country man from ‘Downright Dick of the West’,
1685–8. 44
3.1 Trade token of Edward Waters of Horsted Keynes, tailor, 1668. 52
3.2 Extract from probate inventory of Michael Woodgate of
Horsham, mercer, 1679. 59
3.3 Trade token of Edmund Middleton of Lewes, haberdasher, 1666. 62
3.4 Pedlar with his pack from ‘Sorrowful Lamentation of the Pedlars
and Petty Chapmen for the Hardness of the Times and the Decay
of Trade’, 1685–8. 64
3.5 Marcellus Laroon, second- hand clothes seller from his series
‘Th e Cries of the City of London’, 1688. 66
3.6 Extract from probate inventory of Edward Napper of Chichester,
cordwainer, 1623. 70
4.1 Print of Mercers’ Hall, showing row of shops on the ground
fl oor, 1680. 77
4.2 Wenceslaus Hollar, Interior View of the Royal Exchange, 1647. 78
4.3 Trade card of Th omas Jacomb, glove seller, c. 1700. 80
4.4 Page from Giles Moore’s account book, showing entries for
1656–9. 86
4.5 Wenceslaus Hollar, Th e Winter Habit of an English
Gentlewoman, 1644. 89
4.6 Letter sent by James Gresham to Judith Morley, January 1641. 92
5.1 Short doublet and petticoat breeches made in England or
France, 1660. 102
5.2 Brown worsted coat and breeches, c. 1680, shown with brown
worsted cloak, c. 1670. 105
5.3 Jean Dieu de Saint Jean, ‘Homme de Qualit é en Habit d’Hiver’, 1678. 106
5.4 Leonard Knyff , Portrait of Arthur Ingram, 3rd Viscount
Irwin, 1700. 108
5.5 Unknown artist, Edward Sparke (d. 1693), vicar of Tottenham
and chaplain to Charles II, wearing skull cap, bands and
gown, 1666. 111
5.6 Silver tobacco box engraved with coat of arms, made in London
possibly by Caleb Westbrooke, 1691–2. 115
5.7 ‘Lord Clapham’, one of a pair of fashion dolls, c. 1690. 117
5.8 Letter from James Wightman to Samuel Jeake, undated, probably
April 1681. 121
5.9 Pages from Richard Stapley’s memorandum book, 1684–5. 123
5.10 Calendar watch made by Benjamin Hill, 1650–1660. 125
6.1 Ivory satin bodice trimmed with bobbin lace with parchment
and coloured silk, stiff ened with whalebone, 1660–9. 131
6.2 ‘Lady Clapham’, one of a pair of fashion dolls, c. 1690. 133
6.3 Tin- glazed earthenware dish, ‘Th e À -la- mode Dress or the
Maiden’s Mode Admired and Continued by the Ape, Owl and
Mistress Puss’, 1688. 134
6.4 Cornelius Johnson, Portrait of Lady Coventry, c. 1635. 141
6.5 Wenceslaus Hollar, Still life with muff s, gloves, fans, mask and
kerchiefs, 1647. 142
6.6 Wenceslaus Hollar, Portrait of a young woman, showing the
fashionable hairstyle of the 1640s, 1642. 143
6.7 Peter Lely, Portrait of a young woman, c. 1662–3. 148
6.8 Nicolas Arnoult, ‘Th e Iron Age’ from his series ‘Th e Four Ages
of Man’, c. 1690. 151
6.9 Letter from Samuel Jeake to Elizabeth Jeake, 1699. 153
7.1 Jacques Callot, Beggars, 1630. 158
7.2 Jacques Callot, Marching gypsies, 1621–31. 161
7.3 Charles Beale, Portrait of an elderly woman, possibly a
household servant, 1680. 164
7.4 Randle Holme’s original drawings of working men for his
Academy of Armory (Chester, 1688). 166
7.5 Cowfold overseers’ account for the cost of clothing Jonathan
Mote, 1642. 172
7.6 Edward Barlow’s drawing of himself leaving home aged
fourteen, 1673. 174