The History of Modern Fashion: From 1850
by Daniel James Cole and Nancy Deihl
Contents
Introduction 10
1 1850–1890 The Dawn of Modern Clothing 13
2 The 1890s Extremes of the Gilded Age 55
3 The 1900s A New Century 77
4 The 1910s Exotic Fantasy, Wartime Reality 99
5 The 1920s Les Années Folles 129
6 The 1930s Aspirations of Glamour 161
7 The 1940s War and Recovery 193
8 The 1950s Couture Opulence, Suburban Style 231
9 The 1960s Fashion for the Future 267
10 The 1970s Revivals and Individuality 305
11 The 1980s Power Dressing and Postmodernism 343
12 The 1990s Subcultures and Supermodels 377
13 The 2000s Mixed Messages 417
Chapter Contents
Chapter 1
1850–1890 The Dawn of Modern Clothing 13
The Road to 1850 14
Social and Economic Background 14
The Arts 17
The Fruits of Industry 17
Fashion Media 19
The Fashionable Elite 19
The Elements of Women’s Fashion, 1850s and 1860s 24
The Elements of Women’s Fashion, 1870s and 1880s 29
Designers and Dressmakers 34
Fashion Fabrics and Textile Technology 39
The Cult of Mourning 39
Historic and Exotic Influences 40
Dress Reform and Aesthetic Dress 42
Women’s Sports Clothing 44
Menswear 45
Children’s Fashion 50
The Growth of the Fashionable World 52
Toward 1890 53
Chapter 2
The 1890s Extremes of the Gilded Age 55
Social and Economic Background 56
The Arts 56
The Elements of Women’s Fashion 59
The Gibson Girl 62
Outerwear and Millinery 63
The Influence of Sport 65
Designers 66
Further Influence of Dress Reform 69
Menswear 70
Children’s Fashion 72
Tattooing in Fashion 73
Looking Toward a New Century 75
Chapter 3
The 1900s A New Century 77
Social and Economic Background 78
The Arts 78
Fashion and Society 80
Fashion Media 82
The Paris Exhibition of 1900 82
The Elements of Women’s Fashion 82
Foundations and Lingerie 85
Maternity and Plus-Size Clothing 85
Outerwear and Millinery 86
Fur Outerwear 86
Designers 86
Beauty Treatments and Body Shaping 92
Sports Clothing 93
Menswear 94
Children’s Fashion 96
The End of the Decade 97
Chapter 4
The 1910s Exotic Fantasy, Wartime Reality 99
Social and Economic Background 100
The Arts 100
Fashion and Society 102
Fashion Media 105
Bohemians and “Couture Bohemians” 106
The Elements of Women’s Fashion 107
Outerwear 111
Millinery and Accessories 111
Foundations and Lingerie 113
Sports Clothing 114
Designers 114
The Beauty Industry 122
The War and Fashion 123
Menswear 124
Children’s Fashion 126
The End of the Decade 127
Chapter 5
The 1920s Les Années Folles 129
Social and Economic Background 130
The Arts 130
The 1925 Exposition and Art Deco 131
Chinoiserie and Egyptomania 133
Russian Art and Style 134
German Culture 134
Fashion Media 134
La Garçonne and the Flapper 135
The Elements of Women’s Fashion 136
Outerwear 141
Millinery and Accessories 141
Foundations and Lingerie 142
Fashion Fabrics 142
Designers: France 143
Designers: United States 151
Costume Design and Fashion 152
Hair and Beauty 153
Sports Clothing 154
Menswear 155
Children’s Fashion 157
The Growth of the Fashionable World 158
The End of the Decade 159
Chapter 6
The 1930s Aspirations of Glamour 161
Social and Economic Background 161
The Arts 162
Art and Politics 162
Fashion and Society 163
Fashion Media 163
Fashion Technologies 164
The Elements of Women’s Fashion 165
Sports Clothing 168
Outerwear 170
Millinery and Accessories 170
Foundations and Lingerie 172
Designers: France 173
Designers: Britain 179
Designers: United States 180
Hollywood Costume Design 182
Vernacular Fashion 185
Hair and Beauty 187
Menswear 187
Children’s Fashion 189
The End of the Decade 191
Chapter 7
The 1940s War and Recovery 193
Social and Economic Background 193
The Arts 194
Fashion Media 196
Fashion and Society 197
The War and Fashion 197
Paris Fashion under the German Occupation 198
Fashion in Fascist Italy 200
Fashion in Nazi Germany 200
Rationing and Utility in Britain 201
North American Fashion “On Its Own” 202
The Elements of Women’s Fashion 1940–1946 203
Hair and Beauty 206
The Théâtre de la Mode 208
Christian Dior and the “New Look” 209
The Elements of Women’s Fashion 1947–1949 211
Designers: France 212
Designers: Britain 214
Designers: United States 215
Film and Fashion 222
Menswear 224
Children’s Fashion 227
The End of the Decade 229
Chapter 8
The 1950s Couture Opulence, Suburban Style 231
Social and Economic Background 232
The Arts 233
Fashion Media 234
The Elements of Women’s Fashion 235
Fashion Fabrics 238
Foundations and Lingerie 238
Hair and Beauty 240
Evolution of the Silhouette in the Late Decade 240
Designers: France 241
Designers: Britain 249
Designers: United States 250
Designers: Italy 254
Film and Fashion 255
Menswear 258
Children’s Fashion 261
Fashion and Rebellion 264
The End of the Decade 265
Chapter 9
The 1960s Fashion for the Future 267
Social and Economic Background 268
The Arts 268
Fashion Media 269
Fashion and Society 271
White House Style 271
Style Tribes and the Marketing of Individual Taste 272
The Elements of Women’s Fashion 273
Foundations and Lingerie 280
Accessories 280
The Boutique 281
Designers: France 282
Designers: Britain 287
Designers: Italy 289
Designers: United States 291
Film and Television and Fashion 296
Hair and Beauty 299
Menswear 300
Children’s Fashion 302
The End of the Decade 303
Chapter 10
The 1970s Revivals and Individuality 305
Social and Economic Background 306
The Arts 306
Fashion Media 308
The Elements of Women’s Fashion 310
Lingerie and Loungewear 311
Accessories 312
Hair and Beauty 313
Denim in Fashion 315
Active Sportswear 315
The Unisex Style 316
Punk Fashion 316
Film and Fashion 316
Designers: France 320
Designers: Britain 324
Designers: Italy 328
Designers: United States 329
Designers: Japan 334
Menswear 336
Children’s Fashion 339
The End of the Decade 340
Chapter 11
The 1980s Power Dressing and Postmodernism 343
Social and Economic Background 344
The Arts 344
Fashion and Society 346
The Diana Phenomenon 347
Fashion Media 348
Music and Fashion 348
Film and Television and Fashion 350
The Elements of Women’s Fashion 352
Accessories 353
Designers: France 355
Designers: Britain 361
Designers: Italy 364
Designers: United States 366
Designers: Australia 370
Hair and Beauty 370
Menswear 371
Children’s Fashion 373
The End of the Decade 375
Chapter 12
The 1990s Subcultures and Supermodels 377
Social and Economic Background 378
The Arts 378
Fashion Media 380
Heroin Chic 381
Fashion and Society 382
Film and Fashion 382
Television and Fashion 385
Music and Fashion 386
Grunge 388
Goth 390
Hip-hop Style 390
Fashion Trends 391
Body Modification 393
The Elements of Women’s Fashion 393
Accessories 395
Foundations and Lingerie 396
Designers: France 396
Designers: Britain 398
Designers: United States 400
Designers: Italy 403
Designers: Belgium 405
Hair and Beauty 408
Menswear 409
Children’s Fashion 412
Asian Style 413
The End of the Decade 415
Chapter 13
The 2000s Mixed Messages 417
Social and Economic Background 418
The Arts 418
Fashion Media 420
Designers as Celebrities, Celebrities as Designers 421
Fashion and Society 422
Film, Television, Stage, and Fashion 424
Music and Fashion 427
Fashion Trends 429
Responsible Fashion 430
Style Tribes 431
The Elements of Women’s Fashion 433
Accessories 437
Foundations and Lingerie 438
Designers and Brands 439
Designers: France 441
Designers: Britain 443
Designers: Italy 445
Designers: United States 445
Hair and Beauty and Body Modification 447
Menswear 448
Children’s Fashion 452
Traditional Dress, Modern World 452
Asian Style 454
New Millennium, Global Watch 459
1850–1890 The Dawn of Modern Clothing 13
The Road to 1850 14
Social and Economic Background 14
The Arts 17
The Fruits of Industry 17
Fashion Media 19
The Fashionable Elite 19
The Elements of Women’s Fashion, 1850s and 1860s 24
The Elements of Women’s Fashion, 1870s and 1880s 29
Designers and Dressmakers 34
Fashion Fabrics and Textile Technology 39
The Cult of Mourning 39
Historic and Exotic Influences 40
Dress Reform and Aesthetic Dress 42
Women’s Sports Clothing 44
Menswear 45
Children’s Fashion 50
The Growth of the Fashionable World 52
Toward 1890 53
Chapter 2
The 1890s Extremes of the Gilded Age 55
Social and Economic Background 56
The Arts 56
The Elements of Women’s Fashion 59
The Gibson Girl 62
Outerwear and Millinery 63
The Influence of Sport 65
Designers 66
Further Influence of Dress Reform 69
Menswear 70
Children’s Fashion 72
Tattooing in Fashion 73
Looking Toward a New Century 75
Chapter 3
The 1900s A New Century 77
Social and Economic Background 78
The Arts 78
Fashion and Society 80
Fashion Media 82
The Paris Exhibition of 1900 82
The Elements of Women’s Fashion 82
Foundations and Lingerie 85
Maternity and Plus-Size Clothing 85
Outerwear and Millinery 86
Fur Outerwear 86
Designers 86
Beauty Treatments and Body Shaping 92
Sports Clothing 93
Menswear 94
Children’s Fashion 96
The End of the Decade 97
Chapter 4
The 1910s Exotic Fantasy, Wartime Reality 99
Social and Economic Background 100
The Arts 100
Fashion and Society 102
Fashion Media 105
Bohemians and “Couture Bohemians” 106
The Elements of Women’s Fashion 107
Outerwear 111
Millinery and Accessories 111
Foundations and Lingerie 113
Sports Clothing 114
Designers 114
The Beauty Industry 122
The War and Fashion 123
Menswear 124
Children’s Fashion 126
The End of the Decade 127
Chapter 5
The 1920s Les Années Folles 129
Social and Economic Background 130
The Arts 130
The 1925 Exposition and Art Deco 131
Chinoiserie and Egyptomania 133
Russian Art and Style 134
German Culture 134
Fashion Media 134
La Garçonne and the Flapper 135
The Elements of Women’s Fashion 136
Outerwear 141
Millinery and Accessories 141
Foundations and Lingerie 142
Fashion Fabrics 142
Designers: France 143
Designers: United States 151
Costume Design and Fashion 152
Hair and Beauty 153
Sports Clothing 154
Menswear 155
Children’s Fashion 157
The Growth of the Fashionable World 158
The End of the Decade 159
Chapter 6
The 1930s Aspirations of Glamour 161
Social and Economic Background 161
The Arts 162
Art and Politics 162
Fashion and Society 163
Fashion Media 163
Fashion Technologies 164
The Elements of Women’s Fashion 165
Sports Clothing 168
Outerwear 170
Millinery and Accessories 170
Foundations and Lingerie 172
Designers: France 173
Designers: Britain 179
Designers: United States 180
Hollywood Costume Design 182
Vernacular Fashion 185
Hair and Beauty 187
Menswear 187
Children’s Fashion 189
The End of the Decade 191
Chapter 7
The 1940s War and Recovery 193
Social and Economic Background 193
The Arts 194
Fashion Media 196
Fashion and Society 197
The War and Fashion 197
Paris Fashion under the German Occupation 198
Fashion in Fascist Italy 200
Fashion in Nazi Germany 200
Rationing and Utility in Britain 201
North American Fashion “On Its Own” 202
The Elements of Women’s Fashion 1940–1946 203
Hair and Beauty 206
The Théâtre de la Mode 208
Christian Dior and the “New Look” 209
The Elements of Women’s Fashion 1947–1949 211
Designers: France 212
Designers: Britain 214
Designers: United States 215
Film and Fashion 222
Menswear 224
Children’s Fashion 227
The End of the Decade 229
Chapter 8
The 1950s Couture Opulence, Suburban Style 231
Social and Economic Background 232
The Arts 233
Fashion Media 234
The Elements of Women’s Fashion 235
Fashion Fabrics 238
Foundations and Lingerie 238
Hair and Beauty 240
Evolution of the Silhouette in the Late Decade 240
Designers: France 241
Designers: Britain 249
Designers: United States 250
Designers: Italy 254
Film and Fashion 255
Menswear 258
Children’s Fashion 261
Fashion and Rebellion 264
The End of the Decade 265
Chapter 9
The 1960s Fashion for the Future 267
Social and Economic Background 268
The Arts 268
Fashion Media 269
Fashion and Society 271
White House Style 271
Style Tribes and the Marketing of Individual Taste 272
The Elements of Women’s Fashion 273
Foundations and Lingerie 280
Accessories 280
The Boutique 281
Designers: France 282
Designers: Britain 287
Designers: Italy 289
Designers: United States 291
Film and Television and Fashion 296
Hair and Beauty 299
Menswear 300
Children’s Fashion 302
The End of the Decade 303
Chapter 10
The 1970s Revivals and Individuality 305
Social and Economic Background 306
The Arts 306
Fashion Media 308
The Elements of Women’s Fashion 310
Lingerie and Loungewear 311
Accessories 312
Hair and Beauty 313
Denim in Fashion 315
Active Sportswear 315
The Unisex Style 316
Punk Fashion 316
Film and Fashion 316
Designers: France 320
Designers: Britain 324
Designers: Italy 328
Designers: United States 329
Designers: Japan 334
Menswear 336
Children’s Fashion 339
The End of the Decade 340
Chapter 11
The 1980s Power Dressing and Postmodernism 343
Social and Economic Background 344
The Arts 344
Fashion and Society 346
The Diana Phenomenon 347
Fashion Media 348
Music and Fashion 348
Film and Television and Fashion 350
The Elements of Women’s Fashion 352
Accessories 353
Designers: France 355
Designers: Britain 361
Designers: Italy 364
Designers: United States 366
Designers: Australia 370
Hair and Beauty 370
Menswear 371
Children’s Fashion 373
The End of the Decade 375
Chapter 12
The 1990s Subcultures and Supermodels 377
Social and Economic Background 378
The Arts 378
Fashion Media 380
Heroin Chic 381
Fashion and Society 382
Film and Fashion 382
Television and Fashion 385
Music and Fashion 386
Grunge 388
Goth 390
Hip-hop Style 390
Fashion Trends 391
Body Modification 393
The Elements of Women’s Fashion 393
Accessories 395
Foundations and Lingerie 396
Designers: France 396
Designers: Britain 398
Designers: United States 400
Designers: Italy 403
Designers: Belgium 405
Hair and Beauty 408
Menswear 409
Children’s Fashion 412
Asian Style 413
The End of the Decade 415
Chapter 13
The 2000s Mixed Messages 417
Social and Economic Background 418
The Arts 418
Fashion Media 420
Designers as Celebrities, Celebrities as Designers 421
Fashion and Society 422
Film, Television, Stage, and Fashion 424
Music and Fashion 427
Fashion Trends 429
Responsible Fashion 430
Style Tribes 431
The Elements of Women’s Fashion 433
Accessories 437
Foundations and Lingerie 438
Designers and Brands 439
Designers: France 441
Designers: Britain 443
Designers: Italy 445
Designers: United States 445
Hair and Beauty and Body Modification 447
Menswear 448
Children’s Fashion 452
Traditional Dress, Modern World 452
Asian Style 454
New Millennium, Global Watch 459