Contents
INTRODUCTION 6
ABOUT THIS BOOK 8
TOOLS & MATERIALS 10
Basic sewing kit • Needles and pins • Threads
• Measuring and marking tools • Cutting tools
• Notions • Useful extras • Sewing machine
• Serger • Pressing aids
FABRICS 34
Wool fabrics • Cotton fabrics • Silk fabrics
• Linen fabrics • Synthetic fabrics
PATTERNS & CUTTING OUT 50
Reading patterns • Body measuring
• Altering patterns • Making a toile • Cutting out
GENERAL TECHNIQUES 78
Stitches for hand sewing • Machine stitches and seams
• Reducing seam bulk • Darts • Gathers • Interfacings
• Facings • Collars • Waistbands • Sleeves • Pockets
• Hemlines • Zippers • Buttons • Hooks and eyes and snaps
GARMENTS 128
The Skirts 130
Classic A-line skirt 132
Button front A-line skirt 136
Classic tailored skirt 138
Tailored evening skirt 143
Classic pleated skirt 146
Topstitched pleated skirt 152
The Dresses 154
Classic shift dress 156
Short-sleeved shift dress 161
Square-neck shift dress 164
Sleeveless shift dress 167
Short sleeveless shift dress 170
Classic waisted dress 174
Short-sleeved waisted dress 179
Sleeveless waisted dress 181
Waisted cocktail dress 185
Classic empire waist dress 190
Sleeveless empire waist dress 195
Long empire waist dress 198
The Pants 202
Classic tailored pants 204
Tapered capri pants 208
Classic palazzo pants 210
Wide-leg shorts 216
The Tops 218
Classic shell top 220
Tie-neck top 224
Long-sleeved tunic 226
Classic princess-line blouse 228
Short-sleeved blouse 233
The Jackets 236
Classic boxy jacket 238
Boxy jacket with collar 242
Classic shawl collar jacket 246
Lined shawl collar jacket 251
MENDING & REPAIRS 254
Unpicking stitches • Darning a hole
Repairing fabric under a button
Repairing a damaged buttonhole
Mending a split in a seam
Mending a tear with a fusible patch
Repairing or replacing elastic
Repairing a broken zipper
CUSTOMIZING 262
Lengthening a skirt with a contrast band
Turning jeans into a skirt • Adding a collar and
pockets to a dress • Embellishing a dress with
sequins and beads • Embellishing a T-shirt with
flowers • Adding a ribbon trim to a cardigan
PATTERNS 276
GLOSSARY 312
INDEX 316
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 320
Introduction
My passion is sewing. I’m never happier than when I’m in front of my sewing machine creating a new garment and I wanted to share that enjoyment with everyone who loves clothes and would like to sew their own. This book offers you twelve basic patterns ranging from skirts and dresses through pants and tops to jackets. There are full instructions for scaling the patterns up, or you can access the patterns via a dedicated website. The bonus is that the basic patterns can be adapted to make a total of thirty-one fabulous garments. If you make them all, you will have a complete wardrobe whatever your age and lifestyle.
Beginners can start with the basic patterns and quickly progress to the more complex ones. For the more experienced sewer, there are plenty of new ideas and techniques to try, or you may feel like making the same pattern several times in different fabrics for a variety of looks. I’ve also included detailed instructions for the techniques needed to make every garment in the book. This section will also help you to work with any commercial pattern. And, finally, there are sections dedicated to mending and customizing, enabling you to prolong the useful life of your clothes.
How to use this book
This book contains all the information you need to make your own clothes. There are patterns and step-bystep instructions for twelve classic garments, and variations of each. Additional guidance, if needed, is to be found in sections on key dressmaking techniques, tools, fabrics, and pattern alterations. Finally, sections on mending and customizing show how to prolong the life of your garments, both old and new.