Advances in Silk Research
By Dr. N. Gokarneshan
Contents
Preface xv
Copolymerization method of weighing silk 1
1.1 Introduction 1
1.2 Silk degumming 2
1.3 Silk grafting 3
1.4 Standardization of grafting reaction 4
1.5 Dyeability of grafted silk 6
1.6 Physical properties of grafted silk 8
1.7 Influence of dyes on the physical properties of grafted silk 9
2. Modification of silk fibre properties by graft copolymerization 11
2.1 Introduction 11
2.2 Influence of temperature and time 12
2.3 Influence of the concentrations of monomer, initiator, oxalic acid and sulphuric acid 12
2.4 IR and UV studies 16
2.5 Investigations of TG, DTG and DSC 17
2.6 Investigation of the kinetics 18
2.7 Evaluation of physical properties 18
3. Silk dyeing with natural mordant 21
3.1 Introduction 21
3.2 Influence of mordanting techniques on the dye uptake and K/S values 22
3.3 Influence of pH on the dye uptake and color strength (K/S) 23
3.5 Color fastness 24
4. Effect of cooking and other treatments on the quality of raw silk 27
4.1 Introduction 27
4.2 Technical details 29
4.3 Analysis of findings 29
5. Factors influencing quality and reeling performance of multi-bivoltine raw silk cocoons 38
5.1 Introduction 38
5.2 Effect of temperature and humidity on reeling performance 39
5.3 Effect of air current on reeling performance 44
5.4 Effect of temperature and humidity on raw silk quality 44
5.5 Effect of air current on raw silk quality 50
6. Crystallite-shape ellipsoid of non-mulberry silk fibres 52
6.1 Introduction 52
6.2 Technical details 53
6.3 X-ray investigations 53
7. Measurement of cohesion is silk yarn 58
7.1 Introduction 58
7.2 The findings 59
8. Relating the microstructure and microrheological factors of different silk fibres 65
8.1 Introduction 65
8.2 X-ray diffraction pattern 66
8.3 X-ray analysis 68
8.4 Video microscopy 68
8.5 Findings of the investigations 69
9. New method of evaluation of low-stress mechanical properties of silk fabrics 74
9.2 Technical details 75
9.3 Findings of the investigations 75
Kinetics of adsorption of natural dye on silk: Effect of 79
surface modification
10.1 Introduction 79
10.2 ATR-FTIR characterization 81
11. Woven mulberry silk fabrics: Stretch and growth characteristics 87
11.1 Introduction 87
11.2 Technical details 88
11.3 Stretch % of silk fabrics 88
11.4 Growth % of silk fabrics 88
11.5 Stretch and growth properties 89
12. Enhancement of coloration and antimicrobial properties of silk fabrics through nanotechnology 91
12.1 Introduction 91
12.2 Technical details 92
12.3 Evaluation of polyurethane acrylate 92
12.4 Influence of polyurethane acrylate concentration on color strength value 93
12.5 UV protection 94
12.6 Antimicrobial property 95
12.7 Wrinkle resistance 96
12.8 Fibre surface 96
12.8 Fastness properties 97
13. Influence of electric field on bivoltine mulberry and tasar fibres 100
13.1 Introduction 100
13.2 Silk samples 101
13.3 Recording of X-ray diffraction 101
13.4 X-ray data analysis 101
13.5 Results of findings 104
14. Torsional rigidity of mulberry and non-mulberry silks 107
14.1 Introduction 107
14.2 Technical aspects 108
15. A qualitative and quantitative comparison of sericin from various sources 112
15.1 Introduction 112
15.2 Technical details 113
15.3 UV spectroscopy 114
15.4 Protein content 116
15.5 Sericin extraction with various energy sources 116
15.6 Sericin characterization 118
15.7 X-ray diffraction analysis 118
15.8 FTIR analysis 119
15.9 Fluorescence spectra 119
15.10 Circular dichroism (CD) spectra 120
15.11 Molecular weight 121
15.12 Thermogravimmetric analysis (TGA) 122
15.13 Morphological studies 122
16. Optimization of technological parameters for steeping silk on small reels 125
16.1 Introduction 125
16.2 Technical details 126
16.3 Orthogonal array analysis 127
16.4 Influence of duration of balance drying on properties of raw silk 127
16.5 Influence of concentration of assistant on raw silk properties 127
16.6 Influence of vacuum number on raw silk properties 128
16.7 Comparison of silk properties 128
16.8 Comparison of sericin content 128
16.9 Comparison of raw silk structure 129
16.10 Comparison of knitted fabric properties 130
17. Drying of silk in re-reeling process by infra red technique 132
17.1 Introduction 132
17.2 Technical details 133
17.3 Drying of re-reeled silk 134
17.4 Determination of raw silk performance 135
17.5 Quality inspection of raw silk 135
17.6 Scanning electron microscopy observation 136
17.7 X-ray diffraction analysis 136
17.8 Influence of IR drying on silk properties 136
17.9 Raw silk quality 136
17.10 Neatness and clearness of raw silk 137
17.11 Winding, cohesion, and mechanical properties of raw silk 137
17.12 Influence of IR drying on raw silk structure 137
17.13 FT-IR spectral analysis 138
17.14 Drying temperature and energy consumption analysis 138
18. Dyeing of silk with bio ecological mordant 141
18.1 Introduction 141
18.2 Technical details 142
18.2 Techniques of mordanting 142
18.3 Procedure of dyeing 143
18.4 Uptake of dye 143
18.5 Measurement of color strength 143
18.6 Color-fastness 143
18.7 Influence of mordanting techniques on the dye uptake and color strength (K/S) 143
18.8 Influence of pH on the dye uptake and color strength (K/S) 144
18.9 Rate of dyeing 144
18.10 Color-fastness 145
18.11 Build-up property 145
19. Influence of laundering and water temperature on the properties of silk and silk-blended knits 147
19.1 Introduction 147
20. Physical and thermal properties of grafted silk fabrics 157
20.1 Introduction 157
21. Anti-wrinkle properties of silk fabrics dyed with reactive and crosslinking dyes 167
21.1 Introduction 167
21.2 Technical details 168
21.3 Findings of the investigation 171
21.4 Effect of the reactive dyes and the crosslinking dyes concentrations on anti-wrinkle properties 172
21.5 Influence of the concentration of cross linker XLC on anti-wrinkle properties 174
21.6 Influence of the concentrations of dyes and cross linker XLC on stiffness of silk fabrics 174
21.7 Tensile strength of the silk fabrics dyed with crosslinking dyes 175
22. Polyester/waste silk core spun yarns and fabrics 177
22.1 Introduction 177
22.2 Pre-spinning operations on silk fibers 178
22.3 Production of core-spun yarns and plied yarns 178
22.4 Testing aspects 179
22.5 Influence of core positioning on structure and properties of core-spun yarn 179
22.6 Influence of core and sheath ratio on yarn properties 180
22.7 Tensile characteristics of 100% silk and core-spun yarns 181
22.8 Strength realization of core filament 181
22.9 Fabric properties 182
22.10 Thermal properties of fabrics 182
22.11 Water vapor permeability of fabrics 183
22.12 Wicking behavior of fabrics 183
23. Relation between cocoon parameters and raw silk uniformity characteristics 185
23.1 Introduction 185
23.2 Raw silk uniformity characteristics 186
23.3 Cocoon parameters 187
23.4 Correlation and regression analysis 189
23.5 Average denier of raw silk vs. cocoon parameters 190
23.6 Size deviation and maximum deviation of raw silk vs. cocoon parameters 190
23.7 Evenness variation of raw silk vs. cocoon parameters 191
23.8 Uster U% of raw silk vs. cocoon parameters 192
23.9 Comparison of actual size deviation with that of theoretical approach 192
23.10 Comparison of the uniformity characteristics of raw silk reeled on automatic and multi-end reeling machine 194
24. Technical aspects of spider silk and applications 198
24.1 Introduction 198
24.2 Spider web and spider silk varieties 198
24.3 Spider silk spinning 200
24.4 Regenerted spider silk 211
25. Morphology studies on electrospun nano silk fibre 218
25.1 Introduction 218
25.2 Technical details 219
25.3 Findings of the investigation 219
26. Technical aspects of silk sericin 223
26.1 Introduction 223
26.2 Technical details 224
26.3 Analysis of extracted sericin 225
26.4 Sericin extraction with various energy sources 227
26.5 Sericin characterization 228
26.6 X-ray diffraction analysis 229
26.7 FTIR analysis 229
26.8 Fluorescence spectra 230
26.9 Circular dichroism (CD) spectra 231
26.10 Molecular weight 231
26.11 TGA 232
26.12 Investigations on morphology 233
27. Application of genetic algorithm for design of silk scaffolds 236
27.1 Introduction 236
27.2 Technical details 238
27.3 Findings of the study 239
28. Special technique for the investigation of crystal and molecular structure of muga wild silk 244
28.1 Introduction 244
28.2 Technical details 245
28.3 Findings of the investigation 246
30. Development of silk fabric patterns through new eco-printing method 249
29.1 Introduction 249
29.2 Technical details 250
29.3 Microstructure type and formation process 250
29.4 Factors affecting thermogravimetric/pyrolysis properties of silk fabric 253
29.5 Printing effects, yellowing and discoloration mechanism 254
30. Effect of some key factors on scouring of sericin in muga silk cocoons 259
30.1 Introduction 259
30.2 Technical details 260
30.3 Effect of degumming 260
30.4 Mechanical properties 261
30.5 Thermogravimetric studies 263
30.6 Differential scanning calorimetry studies 263
30.7 SEM studies 263
Index 265