Handbook of Value Addition Processes for Fabrics
By B. Purushothama
Contents
Preface xxiii
1 Value addition processes and pretreatment 1
1.1 Various value additions done on fabrics 1
1.1.1 Grey fabric inspection 4
1.1.2 Batching 5
1.1.3 Stitching 6
1.1.4 Brushing 6
1.1.5 Shearing/cropping 6
1.1.6 Singeing 6
1.1.7 Desizing 6
1.1.8 Scouring 6
1.1.9 Souring 6
1.1.10 Bleaching 6
1.1.11 Mercerizing 7
1.1.12 Dyeing 7
1.1.13 Printing 7
1.1.14 Finishing 8
1.2 Pretreatment 8
1.3 Machinery for textile value addition processes 9
2 Singeing and desizing of fabrics 11
2.1 Introduction 11
2.2 Purpose of singeing the fabrics 14
2.3 Purpose of desizing 14
2.4 What singeing should and should not do? 15
2.4.1 Should do 15
2.4.2 Should not do 15
2.5 What desizing should and should not do? 15
2.5.1 Should do 15
2.5.2 Should not do 15
2.6 General activities in singeing and desizing of fabrics 16
2.7 Operating instructions for operating a combined gas singeing and desizing machine. (example—Osthoff singeing cum desizing machine) 18
2.8 Precautions to be taken for singeing and desizing 20
2.9 Control points and checkpoints 20
2.9.1 Control points 20
2.9.2 Checkpoints 21
2.10 Normal problems in singeing and desizing of fabrics 22
2.11 Dos and don’ts for singeing and desizing of fabrics 23
2.11.1 Dos 23
2.11.2 Don’ts 24
2.12 Responsibilities and authorities of supervisor in singeing and desizing 25
2.12.1 Responsibilities 25
2.12.2 Authorities 25
3 Scouring and washing 27
3.1 Purpose of scouring 27
3.2 Kier boiling 27
3.2.1 What kier boiling should and should not do? 29
3.2.2 General activities in kier boiling 30
3.2.3 Knowledge required for kier boiling 31
3.2.4 Signifi cance of different steps in kier boiling cycle 31
3.2.5 Precautions to be taken for kier boiling 31
3.2.6 Control points and checkpoints for kier boiling 32
3.2.7 Normal problems in kier boiling 34
3.2.8 Dos and don’ts for kier boiling 35
3.2.9 Responsibilities and authorities of supervisor in kier boiling 36
3.3 Continuous scouring using J-box 37
3.3.1 J-box 37
3.4 Bleaching 40
3.5 Washing 41
3.5.1 Rope washing machine 42
3.5.2 Open-width continuous washing machine 44
3.5.3 Horizontal washing machines 45
4 Mercerizing of fabrics 47
4.1 Mercerization purpose and systems 47
4.2 Chain mercerizing using caustic soda 48
4.2.1 What chain mercerization should and should not do? 49
4.2.2 Quality of mercerizing 49
4.2.3 General activities in fabric mercerizing using caustic soda 50
4.2.4 Typical operating procedure of a chain mercerizing machine using caustic soda 51
4.2.5 Precautions to be taken for mercerizing using caustic soda 58
4.2.6 Control points and checkpoints in chain mercerizing using caustic soda 58
4.2.7 Dos and don’ts for chain mercerizing using caustic soda 61
4.3 Liquid ammonia (LA) mercerizing of cellulose fibres 62
4.3.1 Benefits of LA mercerizing 63
4.3.2 Standard operating procedure for LA mercerizing 66
4.3.3 Dos and Don’ts for LA mercerizing 67
4.3.4 Normal problems in fabric mercerizing 68
4.4 Responsibilities and authorities of supervisor in mercerizing 68
4.4.1 Responsibility 68
4.4.2 Authorities 69
4.5 Mercerizing of knitted fabrics in tubes 69
5 Padding process 71
5.1 Padding—purpose and systems 71
5.2 What padding should and should not do? 74
5.2.1 Should do 74
5.2.2 Should not do 74
5.3 Different padding sequences 74
5.3.1 Pad-steam method for scouring 74
5.3.2 Pad-dry process 74
5.3.3 Pad-batch process 74
5.3.4 Pad-roll process 75
5.3.5 Pad-steam process 75
5.4 General activities in padding 76
5.5 Precautions to be taken for padding 76
5.6 Control points and checkpoints 76
5.6.1 Control points 77
5.6.2 Checkpoints 77
5.7 Normal problems in padding 78
5.8 Dos and don’ts for padding 78
5.8.1 Dos 78
5.8.2 Don’ts 79
5.9 Responsibilities and authorities of supervisor in padding 79
5.9.1 Responsibilities 79
5.9.2 Authorities 79
6 Fabric dyeing in open width 81
6.1 Introduction 81
6.2 Batch dyeing 81
6.3 Semi-continuous dyeing process 82
6.4 Continuous dyeing process 83
6.5 Jig dyeing machine 83
6.5.1 What jigger should and should not do? 86
6.5.2 Dyeing process using a jigger 86
6.5.3 The factors controlling the rate of dye absorption in jigger dyeing 87
6.5.4 Typical operating procedure of dyeing on a jigger 87
6.5.5 Some typical problems that may be encountered in jig machines 89
6.5.6 Precautions to be taken for jigger dyeing 90
6.5.7 Control points and checkpoints 90
6.5.8 Limitations of jigger 92
6.5.9 Dos and Don’ts for jigger dyeing 93
6.5.10 Responsibilities and authorities of supervisor in jigger dyeing 93
6.6 Continuous dyeing system 94
6.6.1 Problems in continuous dyeing 100
7 Fabric dyeing in rope form 101
7.1 Introduction 101
7.2 Winch dyeing 101
7.3 Jet Dyeing 102
7.4 Types of jet dyeing machines 104
7.4.1 Overflow dyeing machine 104
7.4.2 Soft flow dyeing machine 106
7.4.3 Airflow dyeing machine 110
7.5 Process steps in jet dyeing 112
7.6 Control points and checkpoints 113
7.7 Normal Problems in Jet Dyeing 115
7.8 Dos and Don’ts 115
8 Airflow processing of fabrics 117
8.1 Concept 117
8.2 Principle of operation 118
8.3 Various activities that can be done using airfl ow machines 121
8.4 Typical work procedure for softening cotton fabrics 123
8.5 Control points and checkpoints 124
8.5.1 Control points 125
8.5.2 Checkpoints 125
8.6 Dos and don’ts 126
8.6.1 Dos 126
8.6.2 Don’ts 126
9 Textile drying 127
9.1 Drying 127
9.2 What drying should and should not do? 127
9.2.1 Should do 127
9.2.2 Should not do 128
9.3 Areas where drying is needed in textiles 128
9.4 Different drying techniques adapted in textiles 129
9.5 Centrifugal hydroextraction 129
9.6 Mangling 130
9.7 Drying Cylinders 131
9.8 Hot air drying 133
9.8.1 Drying of hanks using hot air chamber 135
9.9 Yarn package drying 136
9.10 Radio Frequency Drying (RFD) 136
9.10.1 Why RFD? 137
9.11 Hydroextraction by suction 138
9.12 Stenter 138
9.13 Relax dryers 140
10 Hot-air stenters 143
10.1 Purpose and functions 143
10.2 What stenters should and should not do? 144
10.2.1 Should do 144
10.2.2 Should not do 144
10.3 Working principle 144
10.3.1 Feeding 144
10.3.2 Padding of the fi nishing chemicals 146
10.3.3 Weft straightener 147
10.3.4 Drying unit 147
10.3.5 Clips and pins 150
10.3.6 After drying 151
10.4 Typical operating procedure for operating a modern hot-air stenter 153
10.5 Control points and checkpoints 155
10.5.1 Control points 155
10.5.2 Checkpoints 156
10.6 Dos and don’ts 158
10.6.1 Dos 158
10.6.2 Don’ts 158
10.7 Tips for saving energy while stenter processing 159
11 Radio frequency dryers 163
11.1 What is radio frequency (RF) drying 163
11.2 Advantages of RF drying 165
11.3 RF calculations 167
11.4 Application of RFD 168
11.4.1 Packages and muffs 168
11.4.2 Tops 168
11.4.3 Hanks 169
11.4.4 Loose stock 169
11.4.5 Hosiery and made-up garments 169
11.4.6 Thread and warp drying 169
11.4.7 Bales 169
11.4.8 Electronic dye fi xation 170
11.5 Typical RFD 170
11.6 Typical working procedure 171
11.7 Dos and Don’ts 172
11.7.1 Dos 172
11.7.2 Basic product loading 173
11.7.3 Don’ts 173
11.7.4 Safety notices 173
12 Relax dryers 175
12.1 Principle and purpose 175
12.2 Different types of relax dryers 176
12.3 A typical procedure for drying with relaxsteam drying machine 181
12.4 Dos and Don’ts 183
12.4.1 Dos 183
12.4.2 Don’ts 183
Scouring 13 and milling of woolfabrics 185
13.1 Defi nitions and introduction 185
13.2 Earlier systems 185
13.3 Process of scouring and milling 186
13.4 Modern scouring and milling machine 187
13.5 A typical work procedure for operating CombiSoft 190
13.6 Control points and checkpoints 191
13.6.1 Control points 191
13.6.2 Checkpoints 192
13.7 Dos and Don’ts 193
13.7.1 Dos 193
13.7.2 Don’ts 194
14 Drum washing of synthetic fabrics 195
14.1 Purpose 195
14.2 Working principle 195
14.3 Typical work procedure for operating rotary drum washing machine 197
14.4 Control points and checkpoints 198
14.4.1 Control points 198
14.4.2 Checkpoints 199
14.5 Dos and Don’ts 200
14.5.1 Dos 200
14.5.2 Don’ts 201
15 Weight reduction process of polyester fabrics 203
15.1 Introduction to weight reduction 203
15.2 Softleena machine for weight reduction of polyester fabrics 204
15.3 Operating procedure for using Softleena machine 205
15.4 Typical process sheet for scouring on Softleena 206
15.5 Typical process sheet for weight reduction on Softleena 207
15.6 Process recommendation for 100% polyester processing using jet dyeing machine for weight reduction (as recommended by Rossari) 208
15.6.1 Drumming 208
15.6.2 Desizing 209
15.6.3 Single-bath scouring and weight reduction 209
15.6.4 Single-bath scouring/weight reduction and grainy effect on high twist 100% polyester qualities 210
15.7 Continuous weight reduction process 211
15.8 Control points and checkpoints 212
15.8.1 Control points 213
15.8.2 Checkpoints 213
15.9 Dos and Don’ts 214
15.9.1 Dos 215
15.9.2 Don’ts 215
16 Peaching (sueding) of fabrics 217
16.1 What is peaching? 217
16.2 Sueding machines 218
16.2.1 Single-cylinder sueder machine 218
16.2.2 Multicylinder sueder machine 219
16.2.3 Modern sueding machines 219
16.3 Typical operating procedure for sueding machine 224
16.4 Control points and checkpoints 225
16.4.1 Control points 225
16.4.2 Checkpoints 226
16.5 Dos and Don’ts 227
16.5.1 Dos 227
16.5.2 Don’ts 228
17 Raising operation on fabrics 229
17.1 What is raising? 229
17.2 Early raising machines 232
17.3 Modern raising machines 233
17.3.1 Xetma multisystem XR 233
17.3.2 Xetma multisystem XRE 234
17.3.3 Multisystem XREB 235
17.3.4 Lafer raising machine 235
17.4 Typical operating procedure 237
17.5 Control points and checkpoints 239
17.5.1 Control points 239
17.5.2 Checkpoints 239
17.6 Dos and Don’ts 241
18 Fabric shearing 243
18.1 What is shearing? 243
18.2 Different applications of shearing 243
18.3 How does a shearing machine work? 244
18.4 Modern shearing machines 246
18.5 Typical operating procedure 247
18.6 Control points and checkpoints 249
18.6.1 Control points 250
18.6.2 Checkpoints 250
18.7 Dos and Don’ts 251
18.7.1 Dos 252
18.7.2 Don’ts 252
19 Decatizing 255
19.1 What is decatizing? 255
19.2 Purpose of decatizing 256
19.3 Decatizing wrappers 256
19.4 Decatizing machines 258
19.4.1 Kier decatizing 259
19.4.2 Continuous decatizing 260
19.4.3 Finish decatizing 262
19.5 Some commercially available decatizing machines 262
19.5.1 KD Minimat HQ model manufactured by Biella Shrunk Process (Italy) 262
19.5.2 KD Gigante—machine for ‘KD’ permanent finishing and for atmospheric decatizing 263
19.5.3 Thermo Duplex 90—continuous decatizing machine 265
19.5.4 Continuous pressing and setting machines Contipress GPP 400 266
19.5.5 Continuous-decatizing-machines—Superfinish GFP 800, system Kettling and Braun 267
19.6 Typical operating procedure of a continuous decatizing machine 268
19.7 Dos and Don’ts 269
19.7.1 Dos 270
19.7.2 Don’ts 270
20 Formula 1—KD Biella Shrunk Process 271
20.1 What is Formula 1? 271
20.2 Working principle 272
20.3 Typical working procedure 275
20.4 Control points and checkpoints 277
20.4.1 Control points 277
20.4.2 Checkpoints 277
20.5 Dos and Don’ts 279
20.5.1 Dos 279
20.5.2 Don’ts 279
21 Suprema—KD Biella Shrunk Process 281
21.1 Purpose and concepts 281
21.2 Principle of operation 281
21.2.1 Main characteristics of ‘KD Suprema 95’ 282
21.2.2 Technical characteristics 283
21.3 Typical operating procedure 285
21.4 Control points and checkpoints 289
21.4.1 Control points 289
21.4.2 Checkpoints 289
21.5 Dos and Don’ts 291
21.5.1 Dos 291
21.5.2 Don’ts 291
22 Mechanical shrink-proofi ng for fabrics 293
22.1 What is shrink-proofi ng? 293
22.2 Sanforization 293
22.2.1 Procedure adopted for sanforizing 295
22.2.2 Dos and Don’ts for sanforizing 298
22.3 Comfi t 299
22.3.1 Procedure for operating comfi t machine 299
22.4 Steam relaxing 301
22.4.1 What is relax shrinking? 302
22.4.2 Process of relax shrinking 302
22.4.3 Operating procedures for steam relaxing machine 304
22.4.4 Control points and checkpoints 305
22.4.5 Dos and Don’ts for relax shrinking 307
22.5 Jet air relaxation drying 307
22.6 Relax shrinking of knit fabrics containing Lycra 308
22.7 Compacting tubular knitted fabrics 311
22.8 Open-width compactor 313
23 Calendering of fabrics 315
23.1 What is calendering? 315
23.2 Objectives of calendering 316
23.3 Components of calendering machine 316
23.4 Different types of calendering 317
23.4.1 Beetling 317
23.4.2 Watered 318
23.4.3 Embossed 318
23.4.4 Schreiner 321
23.4.5 Swizzing effect 323
23.4.6 Multifunctional up and down double-sided press calendering machine 324
23.4.7 Friction calender 324
23.5 Typical working procedure for a friction calender 325
24.5.1 Terminating the production of calender machine 326
23.6 Control points and checkpoints 327
23.6.1 Control points 327
23.6.2 Checkpoints 327
23.7 Dos and Don’ts 329
23.7.1 Dos 329
23.7.2 Don’ts 329
24 Printing of textile materials 331
24.1 Introduction 331
24.2 Steps in printing 331
24.2.1 Printing fl owchart of 100% synthetic fabrics 332
24.2.2 Printing fl owchart of 100% cotton fabrics 332
24.2.3 Printing process fl ow of plastic solution (high-density printing process) 333
24.2.4 Sequence of discharge printing process on cotton: discharge printing style 333
24.2.5 Process fl ow of emboss printing: pub printing process 334
24.2.6 Sequence of glitter printing process on textile materials 334
24.2.7 Process fl ow of Inkjet printing 334
24.3 Traditional styles of printing 335
24.4 Methods of printing 336
24.4.1 Block printing 337
24.4.2 Burnout printing 338
24.4.3 Blotch printing 339
24.4.4 Digital printing 339
24.4.5 Duplex printing 340
24.4.6 Engraved roller printing 340
24.4.7 Electrostatic printing 341
24.4.8 Flock printing 342
24.4.9 Inkjet printing 343
24.4.10 Jet spray printing 343
24.4.11 Photo printing 345
24.4.12 Photographic printing 345
24.4.13 Screen printing 345
24.4.14 Rotary screen printing 346
24.4.15 Stencil printing 346
24.4.16 Airbrush (spray) printing 347
24.4.17 Heat transfer printing 347
24.4.18 Warp printing 347
24.4.19 Special methods 347
24.5 Preparation of cloth for printing 349
24.6 Preparation of colours 349
24.7 Selecting thickening agents 350
24.8 Printing paste preparation 352
25 Digital printing of textile fabrics 353
25.1 Introduction 353
25.2 Advantages of digital fabric printing 354
25.3 Activity 355
25.4 Digital printing machines 362
25.4.1 VARAD digital screen printing machines 362
25.4.2 Digital textile printer d.gen 740TX/C 363
25.4.3 Silkohol digital printing machine 364
25.4.4 Cromos of DUA Graphic Systems (DGS), Italy 364
24.4.5 Texjet digital T-Shirt printer 365
25.4.6 DuPont Artistri 365
25.5 Typical procedure for digital printing 366
25.5.1 Conclusion 375
25.6 Digital printing solutions 375
25.7 Problems/limitations associated with digital printing 376
26 Garment washing techniques 377
26.1 Evolution of garment washing techniques 377
26.2 Types of garment washing 378
26.3 Garment wash 379
26.4 Objects of garment washing 380
26.5 Advantages of garment washing 381
26.6 Different washing methods 381
26.6.1 Normal wash 381
26.6.2 Pigment wash 382
26.6.3 Bleach wash 382
26.6.4 Stone-wash 383
26.6.5 Alternate methods for stone-washing 385
26.6.6 Stone-wash with chlorine 386
26.6.7 Acid wash 387
26.6.8 Enzyme wash 388
26.6.9 Ice wash 389
26.6.10 Cellulase wash (Bio-stone-washing) 390
26.6.11 Mineral wash 392
26.6.12 Caustic wash 392
26.6.13 Garment wash and overdye 393
26.6.14 Whitening 393
26.6.15 Denim bleaching 394
26.6.16 Sand blasting 394
26.6.17 Mechanical abrasion 395
26.6.18 Ozone fading 395
26.6.19 Water jet fading 395
26.6.20 Single-bath stone-washing and tinting technique 396
26.6.21 Cloud wash 396
26.6.22 Laser marking/spray painting 396
26.7 Different types of washing faults/defects 397
27 Miscellaneous operations in value addition 399
27.1 General 399
27.2 Grey inspection 399
27.3 Bringing the rolls to process house 400
27.4 Batching the fabrics 400
27.5 Brushing 401
27.6 Debatching 402
27.7 Rope opening 402
27.8 Spot washing 403
27.9 Mending defects 404
27.9.1 Stages of mending 405
27.10 Transporting fabrics for folding 409
27.11 Folding 410
27.11.1 Fabric inspection and roll folding 410
27.12 Packing 413
27.13 Sample preparation and presentation 414
27.13.1 Swatch cards 415
27.13.2 Memo sample 416
27.13.3 Sample hangers 417
27.13.4 Sample books 418
27.14 To conclude 420
28 Problems in value addition processes 421
28.1 General 421
28.2 Problems originating from the fi bre and yarn 421
28.3 Problems originating from fabric formation 422
28.4 Problems due to water quality 423
28.5 Problems in singeing 425
28.6 Problems in desizing 427
28.7 Problems in scouring 428
28.8 Problems in bleaching 431
28.9 Problems in mercerizing 435
28.10 Problems in dyeing 437
28.10.1 Problems with reactive dyes 437
28.10.2 Problems in dyeing with direct dyes 438
28.10.3 Problems in sulphur dyeing 440
28.10.4 Problems in dyeing with vat dyes 440
28.11 Factors affecting dyeing performance 444
28.11.1 Reproducibility and right-fi rst-time dyeing 444
28.12 Factors affecting dye selection and evaluation 448
28.13 To conclude 449
References and further reading 451