Digital Manufacturing Technology for Sustainable Anthropometric Apparel (The Textile Institute Book Series)
By Norsaadah Zakaria
Contents:
List of contributors xi
About the editor xiii
Preface xv
Part 1 Sustainable Apparel Manufacturing IR 4.0 1
1 Sustainable apparel technical and vocational education and training
(TVET): integrating technology for skills training 3
Norsaadah Zakaria, Anastasia Vouyouka and Wan Syazehan Ruznan
1.1 Transforming towards the new sustainable apparel industry 3
1.2 Sustainable apparel education 4
1.2.1 Apparel sustainable knowledge 7
1.2.2 Apparel sustainable technical and vocational education and training skills 8
1.2.3 Apparel sustainable technology 9
1.3 Changes in sustainable apparel technical and vocational education and training education 11
1.3.1 Adoption of pedagogical teaching using technology 12
1.3.2 Internship collaborations between industry and academia 14
1.4 Industry changes towards ensuring the right skill set for workers 15
1.4.1 Innovation challenge 1: digital technology with sustainable process integrated 15
1.4.2 Innovation challenge 2: digital communication and data analytics inclusivity 16
1.5 Design, technology, and fit in relation to skills 16
1.6 Conclusion and future direction for technical and vocational
education and training apparel apprenticeship 18
1.6.1 Competency work-based syllabus for apparel apprenticeship 18
1.6.2 Apparel apprenticeship training integrating the sustainability
concept 18
References 19
Further Reading 20
2 The role of 3D measurement technology and anthropometric data
for improved garment fit and sustainable manufacturing 23
Emma L. Scott
2.1 Introduction 23
2.2 Background 24
2.2.1 The body as a 3D object 25
2.2.2 The garment as a 2D object 25
2.2.3 Garment and pattern geometry 26
2.2.4 2D body-shape and pattern geometry 28
2.2.5 Fitting and sampling 30
2.2.6 Grading 30
2.2.7 Fit assessment 31
2.3 Geometrically defining body-shape 32
2.3.1 Measuring process for body-shape using landmarks 32
2.3.2 Body-block 35
2.4 Geometrically defined ease 36
2.4.1 Ease as tool for fit assessment 37
2.4.2 Body-block ease 38
2.4.3 Template block ease 39
2.4.4 Material ease 40
2.4.5 Style ease 41
2.5 Garment fit as a driver for sustainability 42
2.5.1 Improved application of fit preference data 43
2.5.2 Improved garment fit 44
2.5.3 Driving circular production models 44
2.5.4 Bridging virtual-to-physical practice 44
2.6 Conclusion and future trends 44
Acknowledgement 45
Sources for further information 46
References 46
3 Social manufacturing in the fashion industry to generate sustainable fashion value creation 49
Vishaka Karnad and Vrinda Udiaver
3.1 Introduction 49
3.2 Paradigm shifts in the evolution of fashion business 49
3.3 Some directions for developing and implementing a social manufacturing ecosystem 51
3.4 What is the advantage of engaging in social manufacturing? 51
3.5 The smile curve in the global value chain in the world of fashion 55
3.6 Big data and IoT will impact the fashion manufacturing industry 55
3.7 Social cloud manufacturing 56
3.8 Social platform manufacturing 60
3.9 Gaining edge with social manufacturing for green fashions 61
3.10 Global trend for fast fashion to slow down 61
3.11 Some key policies, strategies, and goals to maintain sustainability in the fashion industry 62
3.12 Conclusion—social manufacturing with synergy for sustainability 62
References 65
Further reading 65
Part 2 Technology and Application of Anthropometric Data 69
4 Reliability and ethical issues in conducting anthropometric
research using 3D scanner technology 71
Nurashikin Saaludin, Amna Saad and Cordelia Mason
4.1 Introduction 71
4.2 Importance of anthropometric research in the apparel industry 72
4.3 The 3D body scanning technology and anthropometric sizing surveys 73
4.3.1 The 3D anthropometric sizing surveys 73
4.3.2 The 3D body scanning technology for anthropometric surveys 76
4.4 The 3D body scanning technology: types and reliability 77
4.5 The 3D body scanning: test of validity 80
4.6 The 3D body scanning anthropometric survey protocols 80
4.7 Ethical issues in conducting anthropometric research 86
4.7.1 Obtaining ethical approval 86
4.7.2 Ethical conduct in research as practice 86
4.7.3 Specific ethical concerns on the use of an optical 3D measuring system 87
4.8 Privacy protection 88
4.9 Apparel industry: moving forward with 3D body scanning
technology 89
4.10 Conclusion and future trends 89
4.11 Sources for further information and advice 90
References 91
5 Data management and processing of 3D body scans 97
Sandra Alemany, Alfredo Remon, Alfredo Ballester, Juan Vicente Dura´,
Beatriz Na´cher, Eduardo Parrilla and Juan Carlos Gonza´lez
5.1 Introduction 97
5.2 Creation of individual 3D anthropometric data 98
5.2.1 Processing 3D body scans 98
5.2.2 Data-driven 3D reconstruction of individual human models 100
5.3 A sustainable ecosystem for anthropometric data management and re-valorization 104
5.3.1 The anthropometric data dictionary 108
5.3.2 The 3D body templates 110
5.3.3 Anonymization of 3D anthropometric data 111
5.4 Conclusions 112
Acknowledgments 112
References 113
6 3D anthropometric i.Dummy for sustainable clothing design and fit 117
Chan Chee Kooi, Gordon Wong and Zhang Qian
6.1 Introduction 117
6.2 Product design 118
6.2.1 Shape design involving 3D scanning body profile data 118
6.2.2 Cross-section level design 118
6.2.3 B-spline curve construction 120
6.2.4 Shape generation 121
6.2.5 Panels and kinematics design 122
6.2.6 Validation 122
6.3 Development of the i.Dummy’s technology (hardware and software) 123
6.4 Hardware design 125
6.5 Full range of i.Dummy series 128
6.6 Connectivity of i.Dummy to a 3D body scanner 128
6.7 Sustainable application of the 3D i.Dummy in clothing design and fit 129
6.7.1 Bespoke menswear 131
6.7.2 i.Dummy for fit assessment 131
6.7.3 i.Dummy use in technical fashion education 131
6.7.4 i.Dummy as a research tool 131
6.7.5 i.Dummy for e-tailing platform 131
6.8 Conclusion 132
6.9 Sources for further information 132
References 133
7 Digital fashion technology: a review of online fit and sizing 135
Simeon Gill, Monika Januszkiewicz and Maryam Ahmed
7.1 The evolution of online fashion-size charts 135
7.2 Predictive systems and their classification 138
7.2.1 Development of online fit systems 138
7.3 Virtual fit and size and fit-enabling technologies/online shopping for size and fit 139
7.4 Case study of My Virtual Model 141
7.5 Case study of Metail 141
7.6 Case study of Fitbay 141
7.7 Theory of sizing 142
7.7.1 Key developments in theories of sizing 146
7.7.2 Exploring proportions in product development processes 146
7.7.3 Classification of the figure and proportions in sizing 147
7.8 Sizing and fit 149
7.9 Making anthropometrics accessible to the consumer 153
7.10 How body scanning changed online 155
7.11 Mobile scanning interface development 155
7.12 Human measurement to product development 156
7.13 Future developments in online retail in a digital age 157
References 158
Part 3 Anthropometric Sizing and Mass Customization Technology 165
8 Importance of sizing and fit using 3D technology 167
Shaliza Mohd Shariff, Suhana Japar, Norazmi Shahlal and Asma Ahmad Shariff
8.1 Introduction 167
8.2 The 3D body scanning technology 168
8.2.1 Introduction to NX 16 3D body scanner 168
8.2.2 Calibration 169
8.2.3 The 3D body scanning procedure 171
8.3 Determination of reliability and accuracy of NX16 3D body scanner 171
8.3.1 Reliability results 173
8.3.2 Accuracy results 174
8.4 Comparison of 3D body shapes according to BMI categories 175
8.5 Importance of sizing and fit using 3D technology 179
8.6 Conclusion 182
References 183
9 The production system of mass customization using 3D body scanning technology 185
Jie Pei
9.1 Introduction 185
9.2 3D body scanning in apparel mass customization production 186
9.2.1 Computer-aided design/computer-aided manufacturing systems 186
9.2.2 Modular design 194
9.2.3 Modular production system, unit production system, and flexible manufacturing system 197
9.2.4 Additive manufacturing/3D printing 199
9.3 Future directions 204
9.4 Sources for further information 205
References 205
10 The effective communication system using 3D scanning for
mass customized design 211
Jie Pei
10.1 Introduction 211
10.2 Body scanning methods in commercial settings 212
10.3 Effective e-commerce communication using 3D technologies 214
10.3.1 Online product configurators and codesign 215
10.3.2 Fit quiz/size recommendation 219
10.3.3 Virtual try-on 221
10.4 Conclusion and future directions 224
10.5 Sources of further information 225
Reference 227
Index 231