Sustainable Textile Chemical Processing
Edited by
Dr. Javed N. Sheikh & Prof. (Dr.) M. D. Teli
Contents:
Preface xi
1. Introduction to sustainable textile chemical processing 1
1.1 Sustainability and textile chemical processing 1
1.2 Various techniques to achieve sustainability in Textiles 3
2. Application of enzymes for sustainable textile chemical processing 14
2.1 Introduction 14
2.2 Role of enzymes in the textile industry 15
2.3 Enzyme classification 16
2.4 Mode of enzyme action 17
2.5 Application of enzymes in textile industry 18
3. Natural dyes: Green and sustainable alternative for textile colouration 41
3.1 Introduction 41
3.2 Natural dyes 42
3.3 Brief historical aspects of natural dyes 43
3.4 Classification of natural dyes 44
3.5 Sustainable dye harvesting (Extraction, mordanting, and dyeing) 51
3.6 Natural dye printing 59
3.7 Sustainability and environmental prospects of natural dyeing and finishing 60
4. Microbial colourants – Future of sustainable colouration 70
of textiles
4.1 Introduction 70
4.2 Pigment production 74
4.3 Recent trends to overcome the limitations of 81
production of microbial dyes
4.4 Application of pigments 84
4.5 Future challenges and limitations 87
4.6 Economics for pigment production 87
5. Functional dyes for simultaneous dyeing and finishing 95
of textiles
5.1 Introduction 95
5.2 Antibacterial dyes 96
5.3 UV-protective dyes 107
5.4 Water repellent dyes 112
5.5 Mosquito repellent dyes 115
6. Ink-jet printing onto textiles 124
6.1 An overview of conventional printing and limitations 124
6.2 Transfer printing: A pre-curser to digital printing 126
of textiles
6.3 Inkjet printing of textiles: The potential 128
6.4 Inkjet printing technology: Technological edge 131
6.5 Jetting principles 133
6.6 The ink 138
6.7 Inkjet printing machines 144
6.8 Quality attributes in inkjet printing 149
6.9 Sustainability and inkjet printing 150
7. Sustainable textile finishing using natural materials 153
7.1 Introduction 153
7.2 Textiles and issues of sustainability 154
7.3 Green extract application for textile finishing 154
7.4 Natural materials used for fire retardant textiles 162
7.5 UV-protective textiles using natural materials 171
7.6 Mosquito repellent finish by natural materials 174
7.7 Fragrance finished textiles by natural materials 176
7.8 Wound healing textiles by natural materials 176
8. Replacement of harmful chemicals and Recycling/ 183
Reuse concepts for textile processing
8.1 Introduction 183
8.2 Harmful chemicals and their greener substitute 184
in textile preparatory
8.3 Green dyes and green processes in textile colouration 190
8.4 Choice of natural dyes as green colourants 192
8.5 Green textile auxiliary in dyeing, printing & finishing 194
of textiles
8.6 Bio-materials and Bio-Processes in textile processing 197
and value addition
8.7 Recycling, Reuse and Recovery of textile auxiliaries 199
and chemicals and their environmental impact
8.8 Reuse of dyebath and auxiliaries 201
8.9 Sustainability challenges of the textile dyeing and finishing 203
8.10 Best Available Techniques (BAT) in textile processing 208
8.11 Green garment processing 209
9. Innovation in textile auxiliaries for sustainable processing 223
9.1 Introduction 223
9.2 Invention and Innovation 224
9.3 Changing scenario 225
9.4 Rating sustainability 225
9.5 Textile processing – Ecology and RSLs 226
9.6 New fibers / Complex blends 227
9.7 Innovation in textile auxiliaries 229
9.8 Oleochemicals 230
9.9 Novel surfactants 230
9.10 Auxiliaries for low-temperature bleaching 231
9.11 Cleavable surfactants 232
9.12 Polymeric surfactants 233
9.13 Sugar surfactants 235
9.14 Sugar derivatives 236
9.15 Sugar acrylates 237
9.16 Ester quats-based surfactants and softeners 237
9.17 Methyl ester route 238
9.18 Silicone surfactants 239
9.19 Dye transfer Inhibiting polymers 241
9.20 Acrylic polymers 243
9.21 Special polymers for anti-pilling finishing 244
9.22 Inherently low-pilling polyester 245
9.23 Polyamine condensates 245
9.24 Speciality waxes 246
9.25 Polyester resins 246
9.26 Fluorine-free alternatives in repellent finishing 247
9.27 Coloured fibres 248
9.28 Cationic and anionic dyeable fibres 249
9.29 Salt-free/high fixation dyeing using reactive dyes 249
9.30 Auxiliaries for single bath dyeing of polyester/cotton 250
9.31 Ionic liquids 251
9.32 Auxiliaries for digital printing 253
9.33 Dispersants 255
10. Sustainable chemical processing of denim 260
10.1 Introduction 260
10.2 Denim manufacturing 261
10.3 Why sustainable denim 266
10.4 Sustainability in denim processing 272
11. An approach on saving water and energy for a sustainable 305
textile production
11.1 Introduction 305
11.2 Water consumption in wet processing 306
11.3 Energy consumption in textile 308
11.4 Water and energy management techniques 309
12. Effluent management in textile chemical processing
12.1 Introduction 328
12.2 Water in textiles 329
12.3 Source of steam: Boiler 333
12.4 Effluent 334
12.5 Effect of effluent 339
12.6 Reduction in waste volume 340
12.7 Reduction in waste load 342
12.8 Standards for discharge of textile effluents 343
12.9 Effluent treatments 350
12.10 Disposal of textile effluents 356
12.11 Problems faced by the industry 358
13. Right First Time (RFT) for process sustainability 368
13.1 Introduction 368
13.2 Right first time approach 370
13.3 RFT for water and energy conservation 370
13.4 Reproducibility for increased productivity 372
13.5 Achieving cost-effectiveness through RFT 375
13.6 Laboratory support 378
13.7 Product and process standardisation 379
13.8 The role of chemicals and process parameters in RFT 385
14. Dry processes for chemical processing of textiles 389
14.1 Introduction 389
14.2 Water footprint 390
14.3 Dry process types 391
14.4 Plasma treatment 391
14.5 Supercritical carbon dioxide dyeing 400
14.6 Digital printing in vapour phase 410
15. Sustainability standards for textile processing 415
15.1 Introduction 415
15.4 Overview of five important standards and their 441
requirements
16. Ethical issues in achieving sustainable textile processing 465
16.1 Introduction 465
16.2 Burden on earth during apparel manufacture, 466
service- life and there after
16.3 Textile & apparel industry and environment 468
16.4 Textile industry and exploitation of labour including 469
children
16.5 One problem and two mindsets 470
16.6 Response to challenges of sustainable textile production 471
16.7 Ethical standards take center stage in sustainable 474
processing
16.8 Commitment to sustainability – a moral responsibility 475
of Brands and every one in supply chain
16.9 Transparency and Traceability 477
16.10 Assessment of sustainability 478
16.11 Conscious urge to be ethical-a driving force behind 481
sustainability
16.12 Harmony between technology and ethics 483
16.13 Need to replace invalid premises of development by 485
a new mindset
16.14 Sustainability as an integral part of human life 486
Index 490